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Optic mount hole patterns?


Stlhead

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Have you tried removing the screws yet?

I have a MatchMaster which I think has the same c-more mount as the SteelMaster (5 hole). I bought a *thumb rest [generic]* and the holes line up fine. The problem is I've only been to get one screw out so far. I used a soldering iron to apply heat and then broke two allen wrenches without so much as budging another screw.

http://shootersconnectionstore.com/CR-Speed-Thumb-Rest-P217.aspx

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Have you tried removing the screws yet?

I have a MatchMaster which I think has the same c-more mount as the SteelMaster (5 hole). I bought a *thumb rest [generic]* and the holes line up fine. The problem is I've only been to get one screw out so far. I used a soldering iron to apply heat and then broke two allen wrenches without so much as budging another screw.

http://shootersconnectionstore.com/CR-Speed-Thumb-Rest-P217.aspx

I had the same problem. :angry2:

I friend told me to take my wrench to the next practice session. :huh:

After shooting a while, run a full mag thru the gun and try it then.

You may have to go to the right and left a few times to loosen up the lock tight. :sight:

Worked on my Blaster. :bow:

Edited by TWHaz
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If you had to figure out the hole patterns you did NOT get a genuine *thumb rest [generic]*.

"*thumb rest [generic]*" is a trade mark of ETAC CNC (aka GoGun). At present all genuine Gas Pedals are customed drilled at factory for your specific mount patern. So if you had to figure it out you got a knock off not a real *thumb rest [generic]*.

That being said, a *thumb rest [generic]* may be sucessfully mounted with 5, 3 or 2 screws. When we first started, folks wanted a 3 hole patern to match their C More, which works fine, BUT you might change the zero when attaching or detaching the *thumb rest [generic]*.

After a LOT of research we figured out the optimal partern is 2 screws in between the traditional C more holes, which makes attaching or removing a breeze. The down side of this is you have to drill and tap two holes into the frame, which is easy to do but should probably be done by a professional gunsmith unless you are very familiar with drilling and tapping

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