c5racer99

Have you tried removing the screws yet? I have a MatchMaster which I think has the same c-more mount as the SteelMaster (5 hole). I bought a *thumb rest [generic]* and the holes line up fine. The problem is I've only been to get one screw out so far. I used a soldering iron to apply heat and then broke two allen wrenches without so much as budging another screw. http://shootersconnectionstore.com/CR-Speed-Thumb-Rest-P217.aspx

Over the last couple of months I've bought 2 open guns, both setup for .38SC. I've been lurking mostly in the shadows here and don't post much; just trying to absorb what I can. From what I've gathered elsewhere on BE and from what friends have told me 1.235" is the way to go. That's what I've been using with great success; nonetheless, I'll take the opportunity to give a big thanks to you guys for chiming in on this topic and other info you've provided. Thanks!

When you're posting replies to "You Know Your A Shooter When.... " When you're unhappy with the gun shows because there's rarely anything there from Grand Prairie or Georgetown.

Nice. Being the Texan that I am, I'll take all the compliments I can get. I'm sure my friends north of the Red River can relate to this one!

I'm one of the "buds" Skip was referring to. The guy that was making the suggestion, a top shooter at the club as Skip said, said that he makes the firing pin stop mod as shown in the Front Sight mag to all his open guns. He said he goes further by also modifying the hammer. In the photo below you can see the shiny spot on the hammer where it rides the disconnector rail, he said he removes as much material as possible here to reduce friction and smooth things out. As the slide moves back, the hammer goes to the full cock position. Then, the slide continues to move back pushing the hammer down beyond the full cocked position. Spring pressure pushing the hammer up results in the hammer riding along the disconnector rail on the bottom of the slide. My Trojan has a few thousand rounds through it and the shiny area is well worn. The other bud Skip was referring to also has a Trojan with far fewer rounds through it and the friction is much more noticeable on his gun. This difference between guns is really noticeable if the hammer is cocked manually and then pulling the slide back until it makes contact with the hammer. So, I think the question is whether it's okay to remove material (i.e., the shiny spot) from the hammer? This would seem to reduce the hammer "overtravel", and if I understand RickB's comment correctly, reducing the overtravel would also help with sear battering? That was an interesting article in the Front Sight. I think one of Bob Londrigan's key points here is that if you want to shoot plates with light loads you need to reduce friction as much as you can to improve slide velocity. Tweaking the hammer seems like it lends itself to that line of thinking. How much it would help might depend on how much the gun is worn/polished and the mainspring used.