need help with the draw

[dskd]

been shooting on the plate rack at the club and watching my times go down

2.99 from the holster with my 22lr open pistol from the holster about 10 yards

3.14 from the holster with my 38super open pistol from the holster about 10 yards

both real bad draw times of about 1.4

want to get the draw down to .9-.95

i can do about .7 .75 on a 6" paper plate in dry fire and a 1sec draw feel like it takes weeks in dry fire but in live fire a 1.35 feels fast and a 1.4-1.5 is the norm what going on ?

any one got any ideas on drills or things to do?

or is it just get knee deep in brass in live fire ?

[MTBfarms]

When you dryfire is your gun weighted the same as when you are loaded up in live fire? That makes a big difference.

I like to use a par time when practicing the draw live. Start at 2 seconds, do everything correct then keep lowering the par .1 at a time till you can not make it anymore.

[steel1212]

been shooting on the plate rack at the club and watching my times go down

2.99 from the holster with my 22lr open pistol from the holster about 10 yards

3.14 from the holster with my 38super open pistol from the holster about 10 yards

both real bad draw times of about 1.4

want to get the draw down to .9-.95

i can do about .7 .75 on a 6" paper plate in dry fire and a 1sec draw feel like it takes weeks in dry fire but in live fire a 1.35 feels fast and a 1.4-1.5 is the norm what going on ?

any one got any ideas on drills or things to do?

or is it just get knee deep in brass in live fire ?

I would say what is going on is that your not really being honest with yourself with the .7s to a paper plate in dry fire if your only getting 1.35s live. Make sure that your the same distance away or your target is smaller if your closer in dry fire. Make sure you see your sights in dry fire as well so you can tell if your cheating a bit or not. Maybe get a airsoft gun for the garage so that you know for a fact that your hitting what your seeing.

[CocoBolo]

I had some similar results back when. What it amounted to is that the draw is a little slower however the big time loss was once the dot was on the target the time to break the shot. Dot on pause break shot.

In close range dry fire like your plate I take a marker and put a cross in the middle, in practice the dot must be centered on the cross. If your just getting on the plate you won't take that shot in the real world you will waste time repositioning to where you want to hit.

A quick first shot depends on many factors. Are your eyes drilling a hole in the target where you want that first shot, is your body in postion, is your stance perfect, are you moving only your arms. Matt Burkett does a good job of explaning the fine points of the draw in his training video lots of little factors.

My real fire first shot is about .25 second slower than the dry fire first shot. In practice you must do everything the same as you would in real fire, safety on click it off in the right spot, hit your mark and break the shot without hesitation, you must trust your eyes. Then follow thru so it actually hits that spot.

Reminds me I need to dry fire with my open gun switching back from limited.

[dskd]

I would say what is going on is that your not really being honest with yourself with the .7s to a paper plate in dry fire if your only getting 1.35s live. Make sure that your the same distance away or your target is smaller if your closer in dry fire. Make sure you see your sights in dry fire as well so you can tell if your cheating a bit or not. Maybe get a airsoft gun for the garage so that you know for a fact that your hitting what your seeing

yip same weight and its an open gun so hard to not see the sights/dot

i can get the gun out and up and fire in .7 life fire real bad sight pitcher

and if i have the gun out and some one sets of the timer i can shoot in about .15 to .2 from the beep

for some reason im just not doing it with a live gun on the plate rack it like im holding my self back

[Matt Griffin]

As you observe, most of the time is lost on the presentation and sight acquisition. Rather than snapping a shot to get a good time and a miss, and rather than find the dot, place the dot, then pull the trigger for a hit and slow time, try this:

Do some hard/fast draws. Really strain yourself getting to the grip fast and bringing the gun up hard. Do seven or eight.

Now relax and just grip the gun and bring it up. The times will be the same, by the way. But it's a good drill to relax. Now what you want is to be looking at the target, thinking about the dot coming to rest on the A zone. And you want to start pulling the trigger before the dot gets there. Needless to say, don't break the trigger, but get your mind in the mode of "time to pull the trigger when I see the dot." Bring the dot to the target, not your eyes to the dot then the dot to the target.

Repeat a few dozen times. You want a smooth feeling on the presentation, pretty much the same speed until the stop, and no hesitation when the dot appears. See the dot, make the shot.

H.

[benos]

Also, as you're waiting to draw, visualize the dot on the target. When the buzzer goes off, replace the visualization with the actual dot on the target.

be

[dskd]

thanks houngan and be will try that

[dskd]

thanks for the help guys i found out why the dry fire times where so fast

i was useing a timer on the pc and my comp is running slow

i used a timer on par time and i can do a 1- 1.1 in dry fire

but thanks to your help i have found some things i need to work on like my head droping

[Matt Griffin]

thanks for the help guys i found out why the dry fire times where so fast

i was useing a timer on the pc and my comp is running slow

i used a timer on par time and i can do a 1- 1.1 in dry fire

but thanks to your help i have found some things i need to work on like my head droping

If it's the old RU Ready shot timer, they coded it so that it didn't start the time until AFTER the beep, which was about .6 if I remember correctly. I fooled myself with that, too.

H.

[dskd]

yip thats the one