Cylinder Binding During Reload

[atlscrog]

All,

I'm a new-ish revolver shooter and had a situation tonight that made me curious and thought I would ask the more experienced shooters here for some guidance.

My equipment is a 625 with a four inch barrel, Blade Tech kydex holster and a North Mountain 4 post moonclip holder. The 625 is a custom job with the work done by (so I'm told) a nationally known smith. Also, I'm a lefty and I use the 'thumb through' reload method where my right thumb is through the frame.

At our weekly indoor USPSA match, our third and final stage was a simple speed shoot: 3 targets, two on each, reload, two on each from about 10 yards. The situation was that I nailed the reload ('throwing' the moon-clip into the cylinder) but when I went to close the cylinder it wouldn't close.

What happened was that with the cylinder open, I had somehow pushed the cylinder back and it wouldn't close because the cylinder was binding on that little extra piece of metal that is in the left rear bottom corner of the cylinder opening on the frame.

I have three questions:

1. Should the cylinder have that much 'shake' when open where when pushed to the rear it will not close? (I have two 625s and they both exhibit this behavior)

2. What does that extra material (metal) on the bottom left rear of the cylinder opening on the frame do?

3. Depending on the answer to #2, can it be removed or shaped so that the cylinder will still close when pushed towards the rear while open?

I realize I may be over-thinking this, but even so I am looking forward to feedback from the Benos community.

Thanks,

Scott

Edited September 7, 2009 by atlscrog

[jasond]

That lump on the frame is what keeps the cylinder from sliding back! The sharp back edge of the cylinder shoudn't ever come past it. I'm not sure what could cause it to do so, maybe a bent crane?

Did both 625s come from the same place?

[Bubber]

As jasond replied the "bump" is to keep the cylinder from going to far back. A fellow shooter had the same sympton but it only happened at the Arkansas Sectional. The cylinder almost came all the way off backwards. Problem on his was the bent Yoke/crane as jasond also brought up. And a new yoke will have to be fitted I believe. later rdd

ETA

But you may be able to straighten it.

Edited September 7, 2009 by Bubber

[Toolguy]

That little extra piece of metal is called the Frame Lug. It's sole purpose in life is to keep the cylinder from coming off towards the back. Sometimes these get worn or rounded off enough so the cylinder can ride up over it. Sometimes they weren't tall enough to begin with from the factory. The newer guns have it as one piece with the frame. You can tell the new ones by the extra strip of material that runs vertical from the

recoil shield down to the frame lug. The frame lug on the older ones is replaceable. It is staked in right behind the trigger on the left side of the

frame. The replacement part in Brownell's is: Frame Lug SS 45ACP #4Z03C14. They are a little spendy though - $3.93 ea.

[atlscrog]

Thanks to all, your replies are much appreciated.

I was wrong, only the modified 625 exhibits this behavior. The (almost) unmodified 625 will not bind with the cylinder pushed towards the rear.

The sharp outer edge of the cylinder has been polished along the turn ring. Perhaps that has something to do with it.

As I have been fortunate enough to get to shoot the nationals, I'll deal with this after the nationals.

Thanks again,

Scott

[atlscrog]

That little extra piece of metal is called the Frame Lug. It's sole purpose in life is to keep the cylinder from coming off towards the back. Sometimes these get worn or rounded off enough so the cylinder can ride up over it. Sometimes they weren't tall enough to begin with from the factory. The newer guns have it as one piece with the frame. You can tell the new ones by the extra strip of material that runs vertical from the

recoil shield down to the frame lug. The frame lug on the older ones is replaceable. It is staked in right behind the trigger on the left side of the

frame. The replacement part in Brownell's is: Frame Lug SS 45ACP #4Z03C14. They are a little spendy though - $3.93 ea.

Thanks for all the help on this issue.

I finally diagnosed the issue and it is: The frame lug is loose in the frame and can rotate a bit from vertical to about 10:00 (counter clockwise) from vertical.

It seems to me the lug needs to be staked into place. Any advice on how to stake the frame lug?

I have some mechanical ability but am not sure the best way to go about it.

Thanks again.

[Toolguy]

If you take off the sideplate, remove the rebound slide and trigger, you can see the end of the stud on the inside of the frame. Orient the outside of the lug where

you want it, get it down flat on a hard surface (anvil, vise, etc.) and punch the other side inside the frame to swell it in the hole. Another method is to put some

# 290 Loctite (wicking grade green) for use on assembled parts on it.

[atlscrog]

Worked like a champ.

I do think I'll order one from Brownell's or Numrich and replace it at some point as it looks quite worn.

Thanks!

[Toolguy]

Yer welcome!