This *really* shouldn't be asking a lot from my 686...

[pwrtool45]

I have a 686-5 that I purchased used sometime back around 1999-2000. IIRC, this is about the time they were released, so it's an early sample of the frame-mounted firing pin in a 686.

In factory configuration, it will light off everything including factory seated (not crushed) CCI primers. Great. Nothing spectacular thus far; this just tells me it's not overtly broken.

With a Wolff Type I ("factory strength") spring, it will fail to light off crush-seated Winchester primers once per cylinder. (It is indeed a Type-I; I have a Type-II for reference. The uncut strain screw is torqued all the way down.) I'm reasonably sure it's not the spring; I put it in my 625 (hammer mounted firing pin) and factory seated (not crushed) CCI primers popped 100% of the time. Since S&W has changed the FMFP numerous times throughout the life of the part, I assume I simply have a borderline early revision pin. My situation is this: I am not attempting to get a bleeding edge 4# super light trigger. Do I need an Apex FP (or other aftermarket pin) for my intended use, or would getting a new pin from S&W fix my problem? (The plan is to use a Wolff Type-I spring with the stock strain screw torqued down all the way. Primer sensitivity isn't at all desirable. I want to be able to light off factory-seated CCIs if need be.)

Anyone?

Edited August 16, 2009 by pwrtool45

[Bubber]

pwrtool45, There has been much debate over the effectiveness of the firing pins, both after market and stock. Putting the main spring from a L frame into a N frame won't tell much as the hammer arch is greater in the N Frame, which may make it easier to light it off. What little I know of the stuff just causes me to take what ever spring I intend to use and bend and tweak it until I get the disired effects, ie; lighter pull, dependable ignition and so on. I usually use a stock main spring which is probably no better nor worse than the after market models. I have about a 4 to 5 pound pull in my ICORE gun but run a 7 to 8 pound in my USPSA revo. I use Winchester SRP in my USPSA revo due to the availability. That and I had 6k laying around the house. My ICORE Revo gets the Federals. I hope this info would be helpful. later rdd

Edited Because I cain't spell, dang it!!!

Edited August 16, 2009 by Bubber

[Toolguy]

To add to what Bubber said - I would get an aftermarket extended firing pin. You'll have an easier time getting reliable ignition with any

spring. If you order a factory firing pin you will most likely get another one like the one you have.

[Carmoney]

I believe I've tested them all. In my experience, the most desirable firing pin is the factory titanium round-nose firing pin that measures about .495" in OAL. This was one of the "middle" generations of factory firing pin. Most of what I see now are the shorter pointy-nose "California drop test" firing pins--these truly suck and go straight into the trash when I remove them from a customer's gun to be replaced with a good pin.

I am running short on my supply of the good factory pins. I just ordered more, so it will be interesting to see which version gets shipped to me. You never know what they're going to send.

When I'm out of the good pins, I'll have to switch to something, and I suppose it will have to be one of the aftermarket pins (probably the Apex, although Toolguy promises me that the latest generation of C&S pins is better than the breakage-prone earlier version).

[pwrtool45]

Thanks for the input guys.

I'll take a shot with the Apex pin and the Wolff Type I. If that doesn't cut it, I'll look at modifying a stock mainspring since I have a spare. If that doesn't cut it, I'll probably just put the Type-I in a HMFP 686 and run the -5 in OEM configuration. Existing trigger is pretty good, just heavy.

[20nickels]

Save your original pin. If you have to send in your firearm for waranty work they will swap out your non-stock pin for the Cal. drop test crap pin. Ask me how I know.