Just got a 610

[Toolguy]

I only do them on custom guns where the factory barrel has been replaced with one made from a blank where there's no latch for the

ejector rod. Don't need 'em on a stock gun.

[Carmoney]

You might be wrong here. Pulling the trigger fast results in an an increase in the distance the hammer falls. Inertia of the hammer with a quick trigger pull will throw the hammer further back resulting in a longer hammer strike and thus increase the energy applied to the primmer.

Nope, once the hammer disengages from the DA "sear", any rearward momentum is instantly overcome by the mainspring tension and the hammer starts moving forward. Even when you yank the trigger as fast as possible, the hammer won't come back measurably further than it does on a nice slow pull.

You can prove this to yourself by locking the gun in a good vise, then placing a metallic or glass object (something that will make a distinctive ringing noise when struck) behind the hammer, just past the point where the hammer can clear the object without touching it on a nice easy slow DA pull. Then yank the trigger as fast as possible. Assuming the vise/gun and the metallic object are solidly fixed in place, you will not be able to "ring the bell."

Another revo myth busted!

[Carmoney]

I only do them on custom guns where the factory barrel has been replaced with one made from a blank where there's no latch for the

ejector rod. Don't need 'em on a stock gun.

Makes sense to me.

[Carmoney]

Mike,

I have them on all my competition guns, i have one on the top of the yoke to keep it closed since i take out the ejector rod bolt. The other one is on the bottom of the yoke where it hinges (where the frame and the yoke meet) to keep the cylinder open. So when im running and reloadng my cylinder is not flopping around. Since i do the weak handed reload my hand is not on the cylinder at all. I think the bottom one is doing more justice than the top one.

Josh

Cool. As one of my original shooting buddies used to say, "Whatever gets you through the night."

[mikey357]

Pulling the trigger faster does not increase the speed or the distance of the hammer fall. There can be no difference between a fast pull and a slow pull in the momentum imparted on the primer. If you're sure this isn't coincidence, you have a timing problem--fast pulls are causing the cylinder to fully carry up, but the slow pulls are not, causing primer hits to be slightly off center on the slow pulls.

All I know is.. when I pull it, the gun goes bang, bang, bang, bang and when he pulls it, it goes bang, click, bang, bang, click.

Same gun, same ammo, different technique. I don't think it's coincidence since we can repeat it.

I also don't think it's a timing problem since the primers look ok, there is no "smear" primer hits.. some indent, some indent but not as deep (misfires). The gun in question also has the same setup as my 610. Reduced power mainspring cranked all the way up and a C&S extended firing pin. The only real difference is that it has about 80,000 less rounds through it.

...just out of curiosity...might your buddy be LEFT-HANDED??? It COULD make a (SMALL) difference in the gun's TIMING...just curious, y'know???.... ....mikey357

[Resjudicata]

Well, I was cleaning out the garage and found 1000 Federal small pistol primers. Problem solved. Sort of.

The gun still won't fire the Wolf primers but it seems to be 100% with the Federals.

It really loads fast with the heavy chamfer too.

Chris