Reloading Help

[PistolJim]

Hi,

I just recently picked up a Limcat open gun in .38 Super Comp. I think the guy I bought it from said that Limcat called the Comp. A Diablo. On Limcats home page the 2 guns facing each other have the same comp.

So anyway today I shot it for the first time. My load was a 124 Star bullet / OAL 1.245 / 9.4grns. VV 3N38 / Starline .38 super comp. brass. I just put in a Wolfe 10lb. Varible rate recoil spring. The brass was landing on my feet. The gun has a C-More Serpendipity SL sight. The gun would jam sometimes between the sight and the ejection port. The load produced a 167500 PF.

Keep in mind this is my first open gun. Im thinking of jumping up to 9.6 grains of VV 3N38. Or would it be better to go with a lighter recoil spring? Or maybe a different powder?

I wish I could comment on how flat it shot or not but the only time I ever fired an open gun was like 3 Years ago. It was a Caspian in 9x23. I shot about 10 shots.

[eric nielsen]

Variable springs are rarely used in IPSC. I'd buy a 10lb standard rate spring (Wolff or ISMI) and also a 9lb. See how they work.

The ISMI doesn't really break in much. If it's too much to begin with, it tends to stay that way. The Wolff, you can always leave the slide locked back for a couple days.

You didn't mention shok buffs. Most common I've seen is ONE Ed Brown buff. Anything else, and you're gambling, IMHO.

I think you got yourself a very good gun. Going up to about 171 power factor wouldn't hurt with that powder. I like 3N38 & also Vectan SP2.

dvc - eric - a28026

[PistolJim]

Thanks for the Info.-

I wasn't sure on putting shock buffs in. I have Wilson and I think CP shock buffs. The CP's seem a little more durable. Is there a reason you mentioned Ed Brown Buffs? Are they better?

I'll order some ISMI springs tommorrow. 9-10lbs. Standard rate.

Jim A44594

[uscbigdawg]

I would start with checking the initial ejection of the brass. First see if the brass is bouncing off the scope. If it clears that, then worry about springs.

I like (a lot) the Sprinco Recoil Reducer and an 8 pound spring. My load chrono's at 173 consistently. I like the extra umph, to work the comp better. Gas is good!

As for alternate powders, try N350 (great powder) and/or 3N37.

It sounds like your gun is good and is a typical Limcat (I shoot with him a lot). So, that's out of the equation.

Start simple. Get the gun mechanically running (i.e. the ejection port). Then go to springs, then load performance and then springs again.

Rich

[TBeazlie]

This may seem obvious to everyone else, but it was not to me so i throw it out here. I had all kinds of trouble with my first new open gun with ejection/extraction problems and in spite of everything iI tried could not get it to work. I sent it back to the smith and he called back a few days later and asked if i had any gun oil in the house. He lubed it up and sent it back. Works great. Try lubing the hell out of it first, enough so that the first shot or so it gets on your glasses.

[eric nielsen]

Yeah, I forgot to mention a quick scope clearance check. Just take the scope and mount off, then shoot it. Watch what the cases do. They should turn over a little bit BUT NOT flip end over end 40 times in the air.

If they go out of the gun more than 45 degrees "up", then you might want to have a knowledgeble IPSC gunsmith work on the ejector. Possible that an new or re-tensioned extractor will help too.

If you get the same ejection with or without scope, then it's something else. If it's radically better without the scope, well that's where you look.

With a flat-top mount for C-More, you want to check the underside of the mount for grooves & ruts - file them out. Prevents stovepipes jams. Emery cloth helps too, about 500grit. I do that with the slide off the gun.

Check before each match, only have to lock the slide back and peek. The worst combo is old old 38super brass, combined with ruts in the aluminum mount. Best combo is new or once-fired brass and a mirror-smooth mount.

dvc - eric - a28026

[PistolJim]

It was oiled but I'll oil the heck out of it next time I go. Probally Thurs. or Friday.

The C-More sight that I have on it doesn't have an aluminum mount. It's the c-more Seperindity. It mounts on both sides of the frame. It looks exactly like the one TJ's using in the Competion Electronics ad that always runs in Front Sight.

The jam I was having- The brass was getting caught between the ejection port and the c-more. I think I probally had the wrong recoil spring/load combination.

I ordered 8-9-10lb. recoil springs from ISMI today. I should have them by WED. Im going to up my charge to 9.6gns. of 3N38. I seen this load on Jeff Maass web site.

Hopefully that will help. If not I'll try taking the scope off to see where the brass is going.

Thank You guys for the help. Any other suggestion whould be welcome.

Jim

[PistolJim]

I should have added this When it jammed the brass was very low in the ejection port. It didn't appear that the brass was boucing off the scope. It was more like the load / recoil spring selection just wasn't giving it enough juice to get the brass out. Most of the brass seemed to be just falling out right at my feet. About the farthest piece of brass away was maybe a foot and a half. But almost all of them were right at my right foot.

How far should the brass be going on an open gun?

Thank to all, Jim

Of coarse I could be wrong

[ErikW]

I think I probally had the wrong recoil spring/load combination.

I think so too, mainly the spring being too heavy.

Most good-running Open guns I see eject brass 3-6 feet to the right, not very far backwards. I wouldn't be concerned if your gun drops brass closer or farther.... if it runs, it runs.

I think with a 8# or 9# spring in it your gun is going to run like a clock.