adweisbe Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I measured the BC gap with a set of feeler gauges. A .007 would fit but .008 would not. I then pulled the cylinder back and measured again and I could fit a .011 gauge in the gap. Was this the right call? My understanding is that fixing the end shake would result in excessive BC gap. Also measured my 642 and I can fit a .012 in there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray R. Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I think you made a good call. .004 end shake is excessive, and .011 barrel/cylinder gap is too large by my standards. One of the things I'm hearing about S&W revolvers is that a lot of them are leaving the factory with excessive and/or very un-even barrel/cylinder gaps. Not good. Am also seeing a lot of rough forcing cones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 The endshake should not be more than .002, preferably less. The cylinder gap should be .003 to .004 for jacketed only, .005 to .006 for lead only or lead and jacketed. The only way to fix too much cylinder gap is fix endshake first, then remove barrel, turn shoulder back 1 thread, recut end of barrel to proper cylinder gap. S&W revolvers have 36 threads per inch for K,L, and N - 3 different diameters. One turn = .0278 inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Just remember that too little barrel/cylinder gap is worse than too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Sounds pretty average to me, you won't find many that are any better if they have a couple hundred rounds on them. That gun will last several lifetimes for the average gun owner just the way it is, and probably shoot damn good. The guys here are worlds different from the average gun owner. A big barrel/cylinder gap just slows the gun down a little, other than that it isn't a big deal. I have a couple with large gaps that shoot extremely well with both lead and jacketed. Add a couple tenths of a grain and shoot on. A little endshake and a big barrel/cylinder gap won't stop me from buying if the price is right. I am much more critical of the timing of the gun.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I agree. And even timing problems can usually be fixed fairly easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I agree. And even timing problems can usually be fixed fairly easily. +1 most anything can be fixed except the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdgun Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I measured the BC gap with a set of feeler gauges. A .007 would fit but .008 would not. I then pulled the cylinder back and measured again and I could fit a .011 gauge in the gap. Was this the right call? My understanding is that fixing the end shake would result in excessive BC gap. Also measured my 642 and I can fit a .012 in there... Not a big deal in my book. Just my 2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Sounds like the solution is to not measure. Wouldn't be the first time that was the right approach. The price was $400 which seemed good enough to me but the white outline rear sight and buggered side plate screws combined with a tuned < 8 pound pull turned me off. Thank you for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Ahhh, this new information about the side plate screws mangled and less than stock pull will have me leave it too unless the price is just silly low. Un-foocking someone's misguided attempt at action work can be a TON harder than cleaning up a stock gun and it can be a LOT more expensive when the trigger and hammer need to be replaced right off the bat. I have seen both, now I buy stock unmolested guns or guns with action work from a select few guys only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Again, I agree. I do a fair bit of fixing up other people's bungled efforts. It can almost always be done, but it certainly adds time and money into the equation, so the price needs to be adjusted accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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