S&W M&P9 Pro Series

[cking]

Well just got one in for a customer. Smith sure didn't spend any time on the trigger. The takeup felt like you were dragging a fingernail across a file, with creepy heavy final stage.

Now I'm sure with few thousand rounds it would have smoothed up on it own, I just couldn't let it out the door that way. A few minutes of polishing that transfer bar where pushes up the firing pin release. Same with the relase hook on the firing pin and takeup was smooth with crisp release on the second stage.

Anybody else think that funky little catch serves as a disconnect is going to get bent and screw up.

Shame on you S&W.

Edited July 12, 2008 by cking

[sperman]

Well just got one in for a customer. Smith sure didn't spend any time on the trigger. The takeup felt like you were dragging a fingernail across a file, with creepy heavy final stage.

Now I'm sure with few thousand rounds it would have smoothed up on it own, I just couldn't let it out the door that way. A few minutes of polishing that transfer bar where pushes up the firing pin release. Same with the relase hook on the firing pin and takeup was smooth with crisp release on the second stage.

Anybody else think that funky little catch serves as a disconnect is going to get bent and screw up.

Shame on you S&W.

I just got the 9L, and the trigger is pretty bad. I was planning on sending it to Burwell for a trigger job anyway, but it's not what I would expect from Smith & Wesson. Very rough and gritty, and over 8 lbs. Other than that its a great gun. Very accurate and well built.

[Pstmstr]

Well just got one in for a customer. Smith sure didn't spend any time on the trigger. The takeup felt like you were dragging a fingernail across a file, with creepy heavy final stage.

Now I'm sure with few thousand rounds it would have smoothed up on it own, I just couldn't let it out the door that way. A few minutes of polishing that transfer bar where pushes up the firing pin release. Same with the relase hook on the firing pin and takeup was smooth with crisp release on the second stage.

Anybody else think that funky little catch serves as a disconnect is going to get bent and screw up.

Shame on you S&W.

I just got the 9L, and the trigger is pretty bad. I was planning on sending it to Burwell for a trigger job anyway, but it's not what I would expect from Smith & Wesson. Very rough and gritty, and over 8 lbs. Other than that its a great gun. Very accurate and well built.

I've got 2 Pro's. The trigger isn't great but it is much better than a stock M&P 4 inch. I've got Mike Cyrwus of Accurate-Iron doing a competition trigger on one of them and haven't decided if I'm going to on the 2nd one yet or not. It is getting smoother with dry fire practice.

[cking]

The S&W spec sheet says smooth 4-5lb pull. I say that could happen after 4 or 5 thousand rounds through it.

If I knew how to take the slide apart on it. It would have been very easy to really slick it up. That safety plunger and hole could be polished, a good face on firing pin would help.

If you could get that rear sear out a little stone work there would help also.

As far as changing springs, have no idea. Seems the striker spring and safety plunger spring would be places to start.

[Dave Gundry]

The majority of the ugly take-up is due to the the way the striker block plunger is cut. To fix this, you'll have to knock out the rear sight and give it a proper radius and polishing. Also break the edge on the trigger bar where it contacts the plunger and polish that also.

Adding a pretravel screw or pin and adjusting so that both the trigger safety and striker safety are active when only at rest (i.e. as soon as you start to move the trigger, both are immediately disengaged) really cleans up the feel of the pistol. I also use a different trigger return spring, as the stock item is way too stiff.

Smith's trigger job on the Pro seems to only consist of a sear that has been cut to reduce engagement and cut to delay the break point of the mechanism, which then takes advantage of the factory overtravel stop (aka the end of the trigger bar's travel) - thereby giving the impression of reduced reset. It also creates a gun with very short trigger reach, something that I hate.

[sperman]

The majority of the ugly take-up is due to the the way the striker block plunger is cut. To fix this, you'll have to knock out the rear sight and give it a proper radius and polishing. Also break the edge on the trigger bar where it contacts the plunger and polish that also.

Adding a pretravel screw or pin and adjusting so that both the trigger safety and striker safety are active when only at rest (i.e. as soon as you start to move the trigger, both are immediately disengaged) really cleans up the feel of the pistol. I also use a different trigger return spring, as the stock item is way too stiff.

Smith's trigger job on the Pro seems to only consist of a sear that has been cut to reduce engagement and cut to delay the break point of the mechanism, which then takes advantage of the factory overtravel stop (aka the end of the trigger bar's travel) - thereby giving the impression of reduced reset. It also creates a gun with very short trigger reach, something that I hate.

Burwell Gunsmithing has really detailed instructions on how to perform a trigger job on this gun. I'm just not brave enough to try this myself on a brand new gun. $65 plus shipping seems like a bargain.

http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

[Darrell]

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