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Lee Dies in 550B


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I can setup dillon dies no problem. I got dillon's 45acp dies and they work great. I have Lee dies from my previous lee press, and I would prefer not to buy new dies. I understand and am using the dillon powder die, but can someone please explain how they have setup/configured their lee dies? Thanks in advance for any advice.

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The Lee dies will usually require you to use the Dillon locking ring as the Lee lock ring will be too thick to allow the die to seat fully, or (1) take the rubber O ring out of the Lee lock ring, turn the lock upside down to use it and this will make it thin enough to use or (2) put the Lee lock ring on the die from underneath the tool head to lock the die.

Edited by Dillon1050
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Just follow the lee die setup instructions. Like Dillon1050 said use dillon locking nuts or remove o-ring or flip as lee dies will seat deeper in the tool head than in a lee press. Use lee dies for both 40 s&w and 38 super in a 550 no problem.

mda

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Thanks guys. I was looking to see if there was something different about the setup of the dies in the dillon. I have them using the dillon rings. I think I haven't setup the FCD properly though. Thanks for the insight guys. Sorry for the repeated posts, I am having ISP problems.

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Since the shell-plate has some wobble to it, it is important to "square" the dies as you lock them in.

You will need all the shell-plate stations loaded up as if you were actually running the machine.

Station 1 - the should just barely "kiss" the shell plate.

Station 2 - (Dillon die and powder funnel) it should put a slight bell on the case mouth

Station 3 - you can, and should, only be seating a bullet at this station, not crimping (with your die setup). The depth of the die should allow you some freedom such that you can adjust the bullet depth seating stem up and down a bit.

Station 4 - FCD is set to "kiss" the shell plate. Crimp function is then set where it just takes away all of the belling added in station 2

(What did I miss, or get wrong?)

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I guess Im strange but I use the lee dies with the lee rings with the o-rings with no problems.

Lucky i guess lol

Flipped my lock rings

Also had to taper the resize deprime die in station one on the bench grinder to make it mate better in the shell plate

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Buy the "u" die if you don't have it(EGW), just makes a good thing better..... Then stand across the room and toss you reloads into the guage (may want to purchase the EGW 4in1 guage at the same time?)... got one for every thing I shoot.....life becomes more wonderful!!!! Own 3ea. 550's one is a converted 450. Super Senior Shooter.... had one of the 1st. 650's ...sold it.... maybe I should buy another 550???????

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Buy the "u" die if you don't have it(EGW), just makes a good thing better..... Then stand across the room and toss you reloads into the guage (may want to purchase the EGW 4in1 guage at the same time?)... got one for every thing I shoot.....life becomes more wonderful!!!! Own 3ea. 550's one is a converted 450. Super Senior Shooter.... had one of the 1st. 650's ...sold it.... maybe I should buy another 550???????

I really like my EGW case gauge. I was having a problem with my 625 Revolver accepting my reloads and purchased a Lee FCD to go in my Dillon 550B. Wound up putting the FCD in a Lee Hand Press instead and just running my "problem" rounds through it. Wound up putting a chamber reamer through each chamber on the revo and that ultimately took care of the problem. Now, I too, can toss a moon clip from 10 feet out and have it fall in :)

My only concern with the EGW U die or even the FCD for that matter is overworking the brass. But, having said that, I usually don't get a chance to pick up my semi auto brass at the local matches due to the shear amount of brass on the ground so it probably doesn't matter.

Take care,

Dave

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Not to be a smart ass, but I solved the 650 problems I had with my Lee dies by throwing them in the trash.

I got tired of fighting and fiddling.

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