20nickels Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 So I'm taking the the Ti road with my 625-8 cylinder. I have been told to chuck up a spent casing to a drill press and use it as a mandrel with some Flitz for a few minutes to fix sticky extraction....... but that was for steel cyl. Will this metod still work for Titanium or is more advanced tooling involved? What methods have you used and are there any other things I should consider with the 325 Ti cyl? Tks ahead, Nickels. Oh, should I use MIM or old forged cyl. stops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 (edited) Wet or dry 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a slotted 1/4" dia. shaft in my high speed grinder. Use some kind of solvent or water so the paper doesn't try to load up. The coating is TOUGH and at least on mine had a really lousy surface finish. Finer grit paper did nothing. I started with 600 and worked my way down. Be careful about the length of the roll. You don't want to round the ledge that is the transition from chamber to throat. However the measurements I took showed the cases definitely headspaced off the moon clips not the chamber. I did see a post where Randy said beware of going thru the coating. So beware. Go gently. Edited February 9, 2008 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopalong Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 I used Flitz and a Felt aplicator with my DREMMELL tool on my 646 !!!! difference was night and day ! Just make it Shine, don't go crazy , HOP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I use the MIM stops with good results. They're cheap and fit. I haven't replaced a stop since I switched to Ti and I don't think it's worth the trouble or risk that a forged stop would shift wear from the stop to the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I use the MIM stops with good results. They're cheap and fit. I haven't replaced a stop since I switched to Ti and I don't think it's worth the trouble or risk that a forged stop would shift wear from the stop to the cylinder. Agreed. I'd rather the stop be softer than the cylinder and "sacrificial". Replacing a stop once or twice a year is no big deal and if it's easier on the cylinder notches, a benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20nickels Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 I thought forged stops would mate better with the forged 625JM trigger. It does feel a bit gritty on the initial trigger pull when the surfaces contact, but as mentioned it is probably isn't worth it. It might not make a difference anyway. I'll just get some extra MIM stops and springs from Brownell's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 MIM does not mean soft. The MIM cylinder stops are holding up just fine. They are generally quite smooth and fit well with minimal or zero effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 MIM does not mean soft. The MIM cylinder stops are holding up just fine. They are generally quite smooth and fit well with minimal or zero effort. Perhas I said that wrong. They do hold up very well, but they don't seem to be as dense as the forged parts. The rounded contact surface of the wonderous C&S extented firing pin, for instance, will dent an MIM hammer. However the MIM hammer being lighter than the forged hammer is an advantage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 However the MIM hammer being lighter than the forged hammer is an advantage. Well as everyone on the S&W Forum knows, that's because the only portion of a MIM part that is actually made of metal is the outer layer about .002" thick. If you stone through that hard metal skin, you'll find a sintered center made out of delicious powdered candy that tastes a lot like PEZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 However the MIM hammer being lighter than the forged hammer is an advantage. Well as everyone on the S&W Forum knows, that's because the only portion of a MIM part that is actually made of metal is the outer layer about .002" thick. If you stone through that hard metal skin, you'll find a sintered center made out of delicious powdered candy that tastes a lot like PEZ. Now if they'd quit making the alleged "SS" cylinders out of empty PEZ dispensers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesLovesJammie Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Mmm...PEZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20nickels Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 Tried it tonight. First chucking up the spent case to a drill and Flitzed it. That wobbled too much for my comfort so I used a .410 gauge bore mop and drill. Results were some smoothing in spots in a couple of chambers but by and large I don't think I did much good. I can still see the machining lines on close examination of the chambers. I suppose I will have the guy that's fitting the cylinder to the frame just do it after he test fires it. Egged out cyl. walls would not be cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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