JThompson Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) Well, I thought I had my mag release issue solved after increasing spring pressure. I'd been shooting practice with no issues... I guess I was a little keyed and brought the weak hand in for the first shot and out pops the 170 right on the floor! Damn! I didn't miss a beat and grabbed another rammed it home and shot the rest of the stage as planned. Damned if I didn't win the stage... who says open guys can't change mags quick. It was really good because I didn't freak or cuss, I remember watching it come loose and reaching for another... I'm not sure, but I think I had it seated before the first hit the floor. A screw=up for sure, but a sweet recovery. I guess I need to go back to a standard release or take the spring up even more. ??? JT Edited June 15, 2007 by JThompson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Or do this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 LOL, I told you about 'bang F&*K'. Now you have been there yourself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 15, 2007 Author Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) Or do this.... That's sweet Dave! Tell me more. Edited June 15, 2007 by JThompson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 15, 2007 Author Share Posted June 15, 2007 LOL, I told you about 'bang F&*K'. Now you have been there yourself Yup. I dunno if anyone snickered, I'm sure they did, but I had the last laugh. I love the Bang ---- thing thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) Regular JB Weld. Mix it. Let it sit for about 2 hours. In the mean time, rough up the target area on the grip - I used a soldering iron with a sharp point. Gives the JB Weld something to grab onto. Then use the now putty like JB Weld to mold the rough shape of the guard. I needed to do the process twice to build it up that far. Make sure to let the JB Weld fully cure in between, and also before doing final shaping. Then use a dremel at low speed, and small sanding implements to do final shape. Color w/ a black sharpie, if you like. I have short little thumbs - can't reach a regular button, and I have to do a mighty flip to get to it w/o an extended button. Without the guard, I'm constantly dropping mags. Rather than go to a weak-side mag release (ala the Mitchell unit) and have to completely retrain, I decided to give this a whirl, after being inspired by TT's JB Weld bump. Seems to work fine. Occasionally, I've cracked it and had to repair it. Superglue works as a field expedient repair - more JB Weld is the real answer, though TT is now jealous and wants one for himself, if he can ever find time to do it (or, so he tells me) (edited to add the blurb about letting it cure...) Edited June 15, 2007 by XRe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 that is trick!! but one question, how do you do on weak hand stages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 15, 2007 Author Share Posted June 15, 2007 That's interesting Dave... I think I will do that or something like it. Thanks for telling me how it was done. I need to do something... there aren't many times you can do that and still win a stage. The Ms and GMs would have eat my lunch. JT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 I found this stuff and it looks like it might just do the trick. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...leitemid=870001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 Let us know how it works - note that the specs refer to it being a good leveling compound, etc? In all likelihood, that means it will tend to run, so it won't (immediately) be suitable for building anything up on the gun. JB Weld is the same way - it can't be molded or shaped right away. That's why I let it sit for 2 hours or so until it becomes like a putty... Do I need to tell you to be careful about the mag catch opening? Maybe stick something in it (esp if what you're using is runny)?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted June 18, 2007 Author Share Posted June 18, 2007 Let us know how it works - note that the specs refer to it being a good leveling compound, etc? In all likelihood, that means it will tend to run, so it won't (immediately) be suitable for building anything up on the gun. JB Weld is the same way - it can't be molded or shaped right away. That's why I let it sit for 2 hours or so until it becomes like a putty... Do I need to tell you to be careful about the mag catch opening? Maybe stick something in it (esp if what you're using is runny)?? Thanks Dave. When I do the work I will post it and let you know how durable it is. Best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken hebert Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Seems to me like it ya'll are keen on doing this, why not try modeling cement? Off the top of my head if I were gonna try this for myself I'd grab up some ABS plastic, cut it to the rough shape I wanted to end up with, heat with a heat gun, lighter, candle, what ever, and bend it into shape. Slightly texture both bonding surfaces and glue together with modeling cement. IIRC, that stuff kinda melts both surfaces you are putting together and when it cures they are one. Since the grip of S_I's are plastic, seems to me like this would work. Maybe...? Or do the soldering iron method like Robar does to add a beavertail to Glocks. Melt two pieces of plastic together and blend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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