Mickster Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 I took out the el cheapo hammer and put in a brand new SS Ed Brown hammer. When I pulled the trigger the hammer would not fall. To fix, I screwed out the trigger stop screw a half turn or so. The hammer falls now. But the trigger had more slack than I liked in it before, and now is too much. Is there any easy way a home gun tinkerer like me can take out some of this trigger take up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 You can mess with the trigger bow. You could go to 1911.org to get info on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 I bought a McCormick trigger that was adjustable for both take up and over travel to solve a similar problem. It took a bit of monkeying with the takeup adjustment to get it right, which you don't know for sure untill you put the gun back together, but it really came out nice in the end. It was a good deal too at $15 or so from Brownell's. -ld -ld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBF Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 I could be missing something, but the screw you are describing, is it the overtravel screw? if so that would account for allowing the hammer to fall when backed out, but not for excess takeup problem. It contacts mag release to stop rearward movement of trigger. It is possible to modify stock trigger bow, but a better solution would be to install a trigger with adjustment built in ( reliability thing ) just my .02. Brownells is virtual one stop shopping for 1911 needs. Travis F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickster Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 Tuner, I'm talking about the slack I have to take up before the trigger touches the sear. Once contact is made it breaks cleanly. With the new hammer I have more slack than before, which was already more than I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Try the McCormick trigger with adjustment for take up and over travel that Brownell's sells. As I mentioned in my prior post it will probably fix your problem. -ld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Dlask also makes some nice triggers adjustable for takeup. They have small tabs on the bow near the trigger that can be bent forward to press against the frame. They keep the trigger from going forward as far as it normally would, thus reducing takeup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Guy Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 Well, a new trigger will certainly work. But if you're cheap like me, put a small vertical cut in the front of the trigger bow (right behind the attaching point of the trigger pad) and bend the cut piece away from the sear, toward the front of the gun. This piece is now your take-up adjuster. Of course, if you cut too deep you'll weaken the trigger, so keep your wits about you. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 DT Guy, I'm also cheap. Can you elaborate on the mod? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Guy Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Take a look (brownell's web site would be a good spot) at a trigger with a 'take up adjuster' and you'll see it's nothing more than a vertical cut in the forward part of the trigger bow. If your trigger lacks this, use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel and make a small (go slow-smaller can get bigger, but bigger CAN'T get smaller) cut into the bow of the trigger. Bend the cut piece out a very small amount. This now prevents the trigger from going as far forward into the trigger track as it did before, and will eliminate the take-up, if done right. Keep in mind that SOME take-up is necessary, so it's better to start small here, too. Test the gun with only two rounds in it, to ensure that it doesn't 'double' when you fire it. If you're still not sure how to do this, that might be a clue that a)I'm a terrible explainer and/or b)it's time to see a gunsmith. HTH, Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Oh, I think I get it. Thanks DT Guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdGI Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 check out this topic http://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread...;threadid=37018 (Edited by EdGI at 3:13 am on Feb. 18, 2003) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickster Posted February 21, 2003 Author Share Posted February 21, 2003 Thanks DT Guy. I didn't get it until I looked at a pic of one in the Brownels book. Sounds better than making a tab at the back of the bow where it contacts the sear which was one way I was told about by a gunsmith. I'll be cutting and bending on it this weekend. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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