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Stage Props


PHolsted

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In March I will be putting on our clubs first USPSA match and I am in the process of getting all the props together for this first match. One of the biggest problems I have come across is a good easy design for the walls. I need something easy to set up and tear down and light…. I have seen several video and pics of some easy looking walls with the orange barrier stapled on them but what I have not been able to figure out is what they are using for a base for these walls. From what I can see from the videos it looks like the frame is made from a 2x4 that have been ripped in half and the orange barrier then tacked on. Does any one have any good pics of the barriers that you use at your range that I can get a good look at?

Thanks

for you help.

Patrick

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At our club, we use the orange fencing (sometimes called snow fencing on these forums) and we either anchor them with outriggers coming down at 45 degree angles or a fence post driven into the ground and then lashed to the legs of the wall. No pics, sorry. We use a ton of army surplus stakes (we probably have at least a couple of hundred), for anchoring fault lines, boxes, walls, etc... The fence posts we use are the thin 4-5 foot long variety that 1 man can drive into the ground with a sledge in about 2 minutes.

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See www.target-stands.com.

These can be a framework for targets, barriers, shoot house, etc.

We use 2x4's for the framework, sheets of corrugated plastic board for barriers/walls -- lightweight, affordable, relatively weather-resistant, moveable, etc.

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A couple of the clubs around here have started to build wall frames out of pressure treated 2X2's with the orange fence. I don't have a photo handy, but the walls are 8 feet long and between 6 and 6 1/2 feet tall. We put "feet" about 3 feet long on the ends of the legs so the wall stand. The best corner braces I've seen are 1/2 inch plywood triangles to reinforce and stiffen the whole assembly. Good ol' drywall screws are used to assemble the walls. They are light enough for one person to pick up and move and will take bullet strikes a 100 times better than PVC wall frames.

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Our club had bases made that a 2x4 will slip into. It has a large spike welded to the bottom. You drive them into the ground and put the 2x4 in it. They are approximately 24" tall made of steel ( like a rectangular hollow beam) then a base is welded to it and the spike is welded to the bottom of it. Drive them in the ground , stick the 2x4 in and staple the snow fence to it.

I know this is a poor descrition if you send me your address I will drawn it and mail it to you.

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Our club had bases made that a 2x4 will slip into. It has a large spike welded to the bottom. You drive them into the ground and put the 2x4 in it. They are approximately 24" tall made of steel ( like a rectangular hollow beam) then a base is welded to it and the spike is welded to the bottom of it. Drive them in the ground , stick the 2x4 in and staple the snow fence to it.

I know this is a poor descrition if you send me your address I will drawn it and mail it to you.

We use 2x4 wall support legs spiked into the ground. Use drywall screws to fasten walls to them. These are very strong and will support heavy walls or light walls. You need one 2x4 -- 8' to make each leg. Use 2 of these behing a lightweigh 2' x 6' wall section to make a barricade for classifiers. Click the link for a construction drawing and instructions.

Wall Support Legs

Larry

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We make our walls out of 1 inch tubing. We weld them with 3 foot legs and use old plow disks with inch and a half pipe welded to the disk for the tubing to slide into. Then use snow fence with zip ties for the center. They are very easy to carry and last forever.

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