j1b Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 I can't count the number of slides I've cracked - probably close to six on various different guns for various different reasons. I look for it - but it rarely surprises me. Most slides I've cracked (and frames for that matter) have been on very well used blasters. Pressure, slide speed, gun abuse - all play into it. For me its a factor of the sport. Obviously since I hardly shoot anymore I haven't had to worry about it much - but if I resumed the schedule of the past I'd probably crack a few more slides. JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC51_Texas Posted March 22, 2003 Share Posted March 22, 2003 Any truth to the "Hard Chroming" process possibly making the steel brittle and prone to cracking prematurely? Here's a quote from the Tripp Website that has me wondering if anyone has experienced this: "With any electroplating process there can be a condition called hydrogen embrittlement. During the plating process some of the plating current goes to form hydrogen gas at the surface of the metal. Some of this hydrogen can be occluded in the basis metal which can cause residual stress in the surface and cause cracking problems later." This is refering to the Hard Chrome process and here's the Website link: http://www.trippresearch.com/tech/hardchro.../hardchrome.htm Just wondering if any of these slides of Roger's were "Hard Chromed" and if they were all done by the same shop?? Sounds like Tripp knows what they are doing in their process, but others may not?? Any comments or feedback would be welcome. I want to have my STI Blaster Hard Chromed eventually and I'm just wondering if there is a risk?? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcschwenke Posted March 25, 2003 Share Posted March 25, 2003 I've got 3 guns with over 75,000 rounds in each with no problems. I think that incorrect barrel installation and metal treatments are to blame for most of the cracked slides. Nitriding is probably the worst thing you could do to a slide for stress cracking. Anything over rockwell C of 45 can and will cause this. Nickel plating may also. The slides do also work harden depending on material used. I wish the pictures worked on my system so I could see the problem. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffro Posted March 25, 2003 Share Posted March 25, 2003 "With any electroplating process there can be a condition called hydrogen embrittlement. During the plating process some of the plating current goes to form hydrogen gas at the surface of the metal. Some of this hydrogen can be occluded in the basis metal which can cause residual stress in the surface and cause cracking problems later." RC 51, This problem is overcome when handled properly. If the parts are "baked" or "tempered" in an oven for several hours after the hard chrome is applied, it relieves the stress and potential for cracking. The good hard chrome platers know this and do it. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Hey, I'm eager to look at busted guns too, but the photos didn't come through for me. Did I miss a memo when on vacation? As for busting slides, I've got a total of 400,000 rounds through my high-volume 1911s, and none broken yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 I guess I am lucky, but I have not had a cracked slide since I started shooting, 1977 and over 1mm rounds. I think it is fitting or the lack of it, and slide speed that lead to that happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Rabbit Posted March 28, 2003 Author Share Posted March 28, 2003 I have fixing the picture already. I have 2 crack Nitrid treatment slide. After that I do nothing to the slide not even bluing it. The hardchrome issue made me wonder that thai gunsmith know about the stress relieve after the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 I suspect you're on to something about the plating. The crack I saw, "A" seems to come from the corner of the inside, where the slide is machined to clear the chamber. If that corner was cut with too small of a radius, then made slightly more brittle from a plating process, then it could crack. I would not shoot a slide that had cracked and been welded. Too much potential for changes in the heat treatment and toughness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuner-1911 Posted April 3, 2003 Share Posted April 3, 2003 I vote for bad fit on A...Ejection port too low on B...Bad slide on C. A could be check-drilled to stop the crack. A crack through to the rail can be tigged up and used a while longer. I had an A crack on a .45, check-drilled it and had it tigged. Then I draw-filed the weld and touched it up with cold bluing. You had to look close to see it, and the pistol has seen another 10,000 rounds without a problem. Don't know how well it would hold up in .38 Soop or 9X23 as I don't use either of them. Opt for a new slide if money permits, but repairing the slides can save some bucks. I've also check-drilled and tigged frame cracks, and returned the pistol to service, although not as heavy as before the repairs. Cheers! Tuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Rabbit Posted April 5, 2003 Author Share Posted April 5, 2003 Please explain check-drill process. Another 10,000 rounds through it seem a good to me. I have mine welded up with special process. But didn't try it yet. I will shoot it tomorrow to see the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuner-1911 Posted April 5, 2003 Share Posted April 5, 2003 Roger, Check-drilling is simple to do provided that your eyesight is sharp enough to see the end of the crack. Mine is starting to fail up close, so I have to use a jeweler's loop. Locate the end of the crack and lightly center punch it at that point to keep your drill from wandering. Drill a small hole all the way through the slide or frame. I use a 1/32nd bit. With a drill bit this small, you will need to spin it very fast to prevent breaking it. be sure to use some light oil during the process to keep from burning your bit. You will also need to be very careful to keep the bit straight, as they are easy to break. I use a Dremel at about half speed. If you've never used a bit this small, I recommend a few practice runs on a piece of scrap, and use a new bit when you go at the gun. I had an alloy Colt Commander frame to crack at the bottom of the slide stop pin hole and on both sides at the rear of the dust cover right at the end of the rails. I check-drilled them, and continued to shoot the gun another 30,000 rounds before the cracks reappeared. Steel frames that are drilled and tigged would probably wear out before more cracks show up. Hope this helps, Tuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Rabbit Posted April 9, 2003 Author Share Posted April 9, 2003 Tuner Thanks for your check-drill detai. I will try mine. I have no luck on welding slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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