Cylinder Drag

[RodeoClown]

In my quest for a smoother action, I'm currently working on reducing cylinder drag. I've taken the plunger and spring out from the cylinder release and that has taken away some drag. I've also cut the cylinder lock spring and that has helped some. I'm using Tetra gun lubricant to reduce the internal drag. At one point I cut the spring in the yoke screw assembly but I've since learned that that was a bad idea.

I'm thinking there have to be more ways to reduce internal friction. I have this vision of a whirring cylinder when the gun is open and I spin the cylinder, but mine doesn't whirr, it just kind of does a couple of rotations and then just sits there. Could you guys maybe help me with tips on how to further reduce drag?

Thank you.

~Julian

Edited September 11, 2006 by RodeoClown

[Carmoney]

Years ago, one of the hallmarks of an Andy Cannon action job was a band of mirror polish around the rear of the cylinder. Frankly, I think it was mostly cosmetic, although I have owned several older S&Ws that needed light polishing in the cylinder stop notch lead-in ramps. You can polish the ball of the cylinder stop a little, but be sure not to reduce its width or round it off too much. The newer MIM cylinder stops are very smooth from the start, and generally drop in with no fitting.

To reduce friction when the gun is being fired, make sure the crane/yoke are in perfect alignment. Brownells sells a tool for checking this--when the pin freely drops into the centerpin hole in the frame, all is well.

To make the cylinder "whir" when it's open, make sure the ejector rod is perfectly straight. Then make sure it's very clean inside there. Personally, I'd clean all that Tetra crap out of it. There is no grease in the world that belongs inside a S&W revolver, in my opinion. A small amount of Mobil 1 motor oil on the yoke is the perfect lubrication for creating that "whir" you're looking for.

[cking]

Have you checked your yoke to see it is making 100 contact on the cylinder. Most don't get the crane cutter and cut it till it is square, break the edges and polish it. then install two powers washers with a little oil. Then you will spin. keep you cylinder backlash around 0 to .001.

[Waltermitty]

Go fire it 10,000 times. That smooths everything up.

[Randy Lee]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick note- if you cut either the center pin or extractor springs, be sure to close the open end. The open end can cause excess drag and scoring/wear in the inside of the yoke or worse become unseated and tie up the cylinder when you least expect it.

[RodeoClown]

Thanks everybody for their help. I checked the alignment, it was okay, I cleaned out the tetra lube and replaced it with motor oil, checked the end of the yoke and polished it. The cylinder stop was already pretty polished from dry firing, so I left that alone. I think the main culprit, though, was the cut extractor spring. I put in a new one, and didn't cut it. Again, thanks everybody!

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

You can also lightly polish the bearing surfaces of the barrel of the yoke to reduce drag. it makes a huge difference.

Regards,

[bountyhunter]

You can also lightly polish the bearing surfaces of the barrel of the yoke to reduce drag. it makes a huge difference.

Regards,

All the new smiths I've looked at had a very rough (and sharp) end of the crane tube. They were obviously swaged to extend length using some kind of tool that leaves a "checkerboard" type face on the end of the tube with razor sharp edges.

These are brand new guns, so it was SW factory.

I recommend smoothing that off. If necessary, add one of the .002 end shake washers. They are made of the hardest, slickest steel I've ever seen. They usually reduce or emilinate progression of end play by reducing wear on the crane tube end.

[lynn jones]

take your thumb off the cylinder!

[RodeoClown]

You can also lightly polish the bearing surfaces of the barrel of the yoke to reduce drag. it makes a huge difference.

Round gun shooter, what do you use to polish the surface of the barrel of the yoke?

[Steelshooter]

I have had good luck using emery cloth, you can find it at most hardware stores. Tear off a 1/2" wide strip, chuck the yoke in a vise and polish away. Use a shoe shine type technique. I also polish the end of the yoke as was suggested, and use the Powers bearings. It will make your cylinder spin effortlessly.

Roger

Edited September 13, 2006 by Steelshooter

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

You can also lightly polish the bearing surfaces of the barrel of the yoke to reduce drag. it makes a huge difference.

Round gun shooter, what do you use to polish the surface of the barrel of the yoke?

I use Jeweler's rouge on a scrap piece of leather. It has worked for me for a lot of years. With a flat face as Bounty Hunter stated and the barrel of the yoke being polished, the cylinder drag is minimal. I also polish the bolt and the ends of the center pin as well as knock the edge off the bottom of the pawl on the hand so it recovers more quickly.

Regards,

Gary

[haras]

You can also lightly polish the bearing surfaces of the barrel of the yoke to reduce drag. it makes a huge difference.

+1 Me too!

I use 500 grit emery cloth (with Remoil on it) and lightly polish it with the shoe shine method that steelshooter describes. I use a peice about 3/4" X 8". Work it around to make sure you get all sides of both bearing surfaces of the yoke.

[RodeoClown]

learning lots! Thanks guys.

[michaels]

learning lots! Thanks guys.

Julian - take the electrical tape off of it...:-)

mike sousa

[RodeoClown]

learning lots! Thanks guys.

Julian - take the electrical tape off of it...:-)

mike sousa

Mike,

right, and the bullets come out at the side with the hole in it, but when I open the cylinder there's holes on both sides, now what do I do? Electrical tape! Plus, I like the yellow and black striping. Sting like a butterfly look like a bee.