SWINE Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Hello all revo shooters, I just got my Brownells trigger stone set, I've watched all three Jerry Miculek videos, and have just about completed my trigger job on my 625 5 inch. Man, the trigger rebound block needed tons of work (stoning) to get rid of the flat spots. If anyone has experience or insight into smoothing out 625 please share your info. All went well. I followed along with my stones and the JM video. One problem is... I lost the firing pin frame sping! *$&*#(*& FU)*)*! Now I'm a bit pissed, but only at myself for losing thins spring. Also, I purchased the JM mainspring and trigger block spring kit. I also purchased the extra long firing pin through Brownells ( .015 extra lengh I think) to prevent mis fires from light strikes. Has anyone tried this trigger job and JM spring kit? I also have the JM grips. I'm excited to try it out, but only after I find the firing pin spring... STUPID ME... CRAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robomanusa Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 keep looking for your spring....the JM kits are good. Stick with federal primers and you wont have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 (edited) Hello all revo shooters, If anyone has experience or insight into smoothing out 625 please share your info. All went well. I followed along with my stones and the JM video. Would just caution never to stone or abrade any sear face or trigger face surface. They are case hardened about .005" to .008" deep. Cut through that, and the parts are toast. I lost the firing pin frame sping! *$&*#(*& FU)*)*! Now I'm a bit pissed, but only at myself for losing thins spring. Cowboy up.... the proper search method is on hands and knees with small flashlight in mouth...... comb the shag rug apart as you go.Draw curtains, turn out lights and look at night..... the flaslight will "flare up" any metal piece in the vicinty. Been there, done that..... more times than I will admit to. Edited July 12, 2006 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 SNIPI lost the firing pin frame sping! *$&*#(*& FU)*)*! Now I'm a bit pissed, but only at myself for losing thins spring. SNIP Has anyone tried this trigger job and JM spring kit? I also have the JM grips. I'm excited to try it out, but only after I find the firing pin spring... STUPID ME... CRAP Send me your address and I will send you a spring. Round_Gun_Shooter@comcast.net Even if you find it, it's nice to have a spare. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 It's not a very big item, be absolutely positive it's not in the tunnel. I spent 10 minutes grumbling to myself on hands and knees, then I looked closely in the spring tunnel and the damn thing was still there. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AFDavis11 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 The easiest way to find a lost spring is to grab a refrigerator magnet and sweep it through the floors and carpet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 The next big thing to look for and fix is the hammer clearance in the frame. Look for rub marks on the sides of the hammer. Most likely the frame side (as opposed to the cover side). Get a couple of extra spring sets so you can experiment with cutting and bending. There are a number of threads here you can search for extensive information. Ditto on the Federal primers. They can be hard to find, but accept no substitutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Mike Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I've done trigger jobs following the JM video on a 610 and a 686, both with JM spring sets, and both with fantastic results. They both have very smooth trigger pulls, with the 610 being around 7# and the 686 around 6#. (my trigger pull guage is from the ghetto, and may be off by a pound either way) I use Federal primers, and have never had a problem. I really think this is the way to go, if you are going to do it yourself. I also (after reading a few threads on this forum) decided to bob the hammer on the 686, and relieve some of the excess metal from it. It looks racy, and I'd like to think that it has helped to reduce the trigger pull even farther, as now I can back out the strain screw one full turn, and I still get reliable ignition. Take care, DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 The next big thing to look for and fix is the hammer clearance in the frame. Look for rub marks on the sides of the hammer. Most likely the frame side (as opposed to the cover side). Ditto on the hammer drag, I see it on every new smith around these days including PC guns. Most of the ones I see are dragging on the right hand (cover plate) side. In most cases the edge of the cover plate was not machined even with the frame edge and I have to cut it down some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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