Non-competition Trigger Job

[98sr20ve]

Hello everyone, I am obviously new here and I have a couple questions about my new S+W 686. My wife and I really enjoy the gun and use it for target shooting, and we have both taken a NRA Personal Protection Class. I plan to buy another S+W revolver chambered for the 22LR soon as well. Idea is we have two guns, both basically the same so we can practice with the cheap ammo and also have the better rounds for protection. I carry the gun in the mountains while camping, etc. It’s also a home defense type gun. I have searched around on various forums including this forum. I am interested in improving the trigger pull of my gun while using DA. SA is just fine. It does not need to change IMHO. These threads give some good info on trigger jobs but leave me with some questions.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...topic=32237&hl=

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...topic=30195&hl=

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35859

1) Is there a spring kit that is 100% reliable with regular off the shelf ammo that I purchase?

2) Some other forums confused me with talk about grinding springs, etc. They also show pictures of what looks like a very different 686 then I have. Hammer has the pin, sounds like it has a coil spring (other forums). This confuses me with regards to what I should do with me new 686. Are most S+W revolvers the same or has the new gun changed enough that trigger jobs are different. Especially regarding the Video everyone recommends from Jerry?

3) Are the Vic Pickett springs something that I should consider for my needs. Any other options I should consider? Wolff?

4) How hard is it to polish the inside of the gun?

5) Where is the Rebound Spring?

6) Can I do the same modifications to both a .357 and the 22LR to get similar trigger pulls?

Basically, What is a decent setup for a carry gun? I don’t want to take all that I read from competition shooters and apply it to my carry/defense gun. Also, any links to how to do this myself would be great. I have not taken the side plate off as some places have scared me that it's tough to get back in. I am not a total nob, I work on cars, bicycles, etc. with no problems. This is a gun so I don't want to screw it up.

Thanks

Steve

[hopalong]

Steve,

If you plan on ever using it as a carry gun, for Liability purposes do not do any self gunsmithing.

Your best bet is send it to either Smith and Wesson and have them do a perfomance action job....(See Smith & Wesson website) or any other well known, competent gunsmith (and insured).

IF you ever have to use it for self defence and you have tinkered with it the liability falls directly upon you.

The 617(.22lr) can also have an action job done to it....but the nature of .22 ammo and the differences in case thickness, case alloy and hardness will cause you to always run that gun at a heavier weight than what you can get your 686 to.

My suggestion, (which means squat) is send them both to the Same gunsmith and have him/her set up the 617 first and make sure it is 100% reliable, then send the 686 if you did not send them at the same time, and have him/her set it up exactly like the 617.

BUT ....... DO NOT DO IT YOURSELF........and carry the gun for self defence purposes.

Good luck, and welcome to the forums.

HOPALONG

[haras]

Steve,

Hopalong just gave you the best advice anyone can. Adhere to it and you will be in good shape. Stay out of your gun except to clean it. We don't use these competition guns for self defense. Oh, and only use factory ammo for self defense.

Welcome to the forums and good luck.

Haras

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Steve,

Welcome to the Forum. many are quick to jump onto an action job. If you are sure you wish to go that route, Hop's answer is spot on.

I prefer to suggest you invest in ammo and break the revolvers in for a couple thousand rounds.

Reason: As the parts mesh from use, the action will smooth up. As you fire, various parts will set in. One result of the parts setting in is end shake. The bushings in the cylinders tend to set themselves and this will give you some looseness.

After you have them worn in a little, find someone that can do what you want. If you send to S&W, they will take care of the end shake and can do their master action job.

Here is a link to the PERFORMANCE CENTER

Whatever you decide to do, it will take time. Most Revolver Smiths I have spoken to are quoting 6 - 8 weeks minimum some as much as 6 - 8 months. Last check S&W was about 8 weeks unless you go with the Express package. Remember they also have a brief summer shutdown. (at least the used to)

Good luck,

Gary

[revchuck]

Steve - I have trigger jobs on three of my S&Ws from the S&W Performance Center, and I'm pleased with them. One of the guns is a M681, the discontinued fixed-sight version of your 686. The double action turns out much smoother but only slightly lighter. The price is in line with other places, and if you need parts, they don't have to send out for them. Turnaround time was less than four weeks for them, but I may have sent them in at a relatively slow period.

The firing pin was on the hammer until recently, when it was moved to the frame.

If you have another gunsmith do the action work, make sure you specify a "duty" action job. This will probably retain the full power factory springs, and smooth up the action by polishing the contact surfaces. If the gunsmith won't guarantee that the gun will function 100% with all factory ammo, find another gunsmith.

[98sr20ve]

Thanks for the reply's everyone. I found a local gunsmith who is insured and comes recommended. He says he does whatever I want him to do (does not have a 'duty carry" package). He said that he could polish the insides and that would effect the DA pull from about 16lbs to around 10lbs. It would not change the SA pull much at all. Seems resonable to me. Said that doing the polish would not effect reliability of fire at all. I have already had a misfire on MagTech ammo so a light spring is out. What do you all think? My wife shoots the gun as much as me and really struggles with the DA pull of the gun.

Edited June 7, 2006 by 98sr20ve