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Do I Need A Separate Crimp Die For 357/38?


tms

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I recently had a complete caliber change given to me for my 550 in 357/38. The toolhead has the powder measure and funnel, but only has a decap die and a seating die, leaving station 4 open. Does the seating die do both, seat and crimp? The dies are RCBS. Any help would be great.

Thanks, Terry

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I recently had a complete caliber change given to me for my 550 in 357/38. The toolhead has the powder measure and funnel, but only has a decap die and a seating die, leaving station 4 open. Does the seating die do both, seat and crimp? The dies are RCBS. Any help would be great.

Thanks, Terry

You can put a "roll" crimp with the seating die. If you plan on shooting a lot of 38/357 I would invest in a taper crimp die for it. If just plinking the roll crimp should work fine. Or at least I think so. rdd

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I use the RCBS dies currently on my 38 spl set-up, but use a Redding profile crimper on the 4'th station. My seater die puts the bullet in at the correct depth and removes the bell from the stage before to a "straight case". Then the forth stage crimps without the bullet without being pushed down. I never did the crimping seperate years back when I did everything separate on a Rockchucker. But now with a 550 Dillon, why not use the forth stage.

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Thanks for the replies. I'll pick up a taper crimp die and I'll be all set. The other option is to get a new set of Dillon dies because I find the ability to pull out the insert for the seating and crimp die very handy.

Thanks, Terry

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Terry - If you're going to stick with .38 Special only, a taper crimp die will work well, especially with plated bullets like Berry's or Rainier. If you want to work with high-end .357 Mag loads using slow powders like WW 296, you'll need a roll or profile crimp.

What works for me is the Lee Factory Crimp die. It gives a roll crimp that's easier to adjust than a seat/crimp die, plus it has a carbide sizer ring that will ensure your ammo is within SAAMI specs. I use it for both .38 and .357.

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