Rs Trigger Query

[hf219]

I just installed a RS trigger kit. Installation went fine although when i try to reset the trigger it intermittently fires the striker. this of course is during a dry fire scenario. At first it happened every time I let the trigger go. After about a hundred or so dry fires it happens occasionally. ANY HELP or suggestions. It may be a relatively elusive quick fix. thanks

[Gun Phan]

You might want to check the plunger spring. A friend of mine had a similar problem and it was the small plunger spring accidently installed sideways (it's so small, you have to be sure it goes in straight).

[hf219]

You might want to check the plunger spring. A friend of mine had a similar problem and it was the small plunger spring accidently installed sideways (it's so small, you have to be sure it goes in straight).

yeah just broke the gun down and went back over that area. the spring appears to be in straight and still occasionally firing as i reset the trigger. maybe its too lite of a firing pin spring. the kit came with one and i have a titanium striker installed. any more help from the public would be greatly appreciated.

[SRT Driver]

Try replacing the titanium striker with the stock striker.

[hf219]

Try replacing the titanium striker with the stock striker.

I replaced the striker spring that the RS kit came with and put back in the wolf reduced power striker spring. Thats seemed to cure it. I couldnt get the trigger to break prematurely at all. The downside the trigger pull is not as light as the RS striker spring. Theres about a pound to a pound and a half difference. ill try the striker replacement as well.

[bountyhunter]

You might want to check the plunger spring. A friend of mine had a similar problem and it was the small plunger spring accidently installed sideways (it's so small, you have to be sure it goes in straight).

yeah just broke the gun down and went back over that area. the spring appears to be in straight and still occasionally firing as i reset the trigger. maybe its too lite of a firing pin spring. the kit came with one and i have a titanium striker installed. any more help from the public would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a mechanical fit issue between the trigger bar and the striker "tab". When the trigger is pulled to release the striker, the trigger bar gradually descends because the curved egde is pushed down by the lip on the connector edge, eventually getting low eneough to release the striker tab. When if fires and the slide cycles, it releases the trigger bar and it pops back up. The striker tab is then behind the tip of the trigger bar as the slide comes forward to battery. Then as you release the trigger to let it reset, the trigger bar should stay in front of the tab. The spring load of the striker spring (held behind the trigger bar) is what resets the trigger to the forward position.

If your striker is releasing on the forward stroke of the trigger, either:

the trigger bar gets to a point where it is too low, letting the tab slip off.

OR

the tab is too short.

OR maybe:

The tab is curved allowing the tab to "slip by" the tip of the trigger bar?

The fact that changing the striker spring fixed it is interesting. I would think a lighter spring would make it LESS likely to "snap past" the trigger bar lip.

Edited May 16, 2006 by bountyhunter

[eric nielsen]

What Bountyhunter said.

#1: Your gun is going to fire full auto bursts if you shoot it that way with ammo.

As for why, it sounds like the same problem that amateur trigger-bar hackers [like me] had, changing the profile of the trigger bar nose. The trigger bar starts to wear at the the part that angles up about 15degrees - the part that releases the striker. It slips off while your trigger finger is still going forward and before you get that finger forward, another shot [or 16] goes off.

You might not have the wear on your parts, they sound new. But you may have a mis-fit between the angled-up part of the trigger bar and your titanium striker. If the Ti striker was not part of the RS kit but put in separately, that's the first thing to suspect.

I'd put in a normal Glock striker, especially the one from the RS kit if it's made from steel. They are probably the right combination of parts to work together without firing in 5-shot bursts. IF your gun goes full auto, immediately you want to release the trigger fully forward. [Then unload the gun, take it apart, and swear a lot.]

HTH

Edited May 16, 2006 by eric nielsen

[bountyhunter]

What Bountyhunter said.

#1: Your gun is going to fire full auto bursts if you shoot it that way with ammo.

As for why, it sounds like the same problem that amateur trigger-bar hackers [like me] had, changing the profile of the trigger bar nose. The trigger bar starts to wear at the the part that angles up about 15degrees - the part that releases the striker.

I noticed when I was polishing that tip that the steel is very soft. Against titanium, the steel is going to lose pretty badly.

The Glock striker is also fairly soft steel (really soft compared to Ti). It dings up pretty nasty when it bumps the firing pin safety plunger coming forward. That plunger is harder than kryptonite.

Edited May 16, 2006 by bountyhunter

[hf219]

Thank you everyone for your info. Im relatively new at troubleshooting any problems with this as I just recently became a Glock convert. As far as it going full auto, I have yet to actually fire the weapon with this new kit and unless convinced from dry firing the hell out of the gun im not about to fire it at the range. It is very interesting that when I put a heavier striker spring in, that the trigger reset fine every time. The trigger break is guestamated at about 3 to 3 1/2 pound break now. the kits claimed trigger break is around 2 pounds. After dry firing it when it did reset that seems about correct. Ill try putting the stock striker back in the slide and go from there. thanks again from everyone putting there two cents in, much needed and appreciated. harry

[bountyhunter]

It is very interesting that when I put a heavier striker spring in, that the trigger reset fine every time.

The striker spring is what forces the trigger bar forward to reset the trigger (against the force of the lower trigger bar spring). It may be that there is some mechanical drag somewhere causing a problem if you need the heavier striker spring to reset.

You could remove the lower trigger bar spring and install the trigger parts in the frame only and then move the trigger manually and see if anything is dragging on the frame. Mine was dragging and it caused a heavy trigger pull.

The trigger break is guestamated at about 3 to 3 1/2 pound break now. the kits claimed trigger break is around 2 pounds.

I suspect that 2# is the pull weight measured near the trigger's tip. Toward the center of the trigger, mine is more like 3# and I have the same kit tweaked down pretty light. Edited May 17, 2006 by bountyhunter

[hf219]

well i think i figured it out!!!!!!!

I brought the gun out to the range and inspected the striker a little closer. I had the titanium striker and the stock striker in my hand and accidently mixed them up. i could not identify one over the other, short of an excessively worn area that is recessed near the tip of the striker. it looks like the striker safety rides in that area. it was worn over a small area towards the end of the recess away from the tip of the striker. i had reinstalled the titanium striker and the gun continued to malfunction during dry fire. i swapped it out and installed the stock striker and could tell right away that the function was correct. i dry fired it about a dozen times without fail. i installed all of the rs trigger kit components and went to work. the trigger runs fine and is a delight to operate with multiple double taps. thanks for your help it really sometimes is as simple not to overcomplicate things. thanks harry

[bountyhunter]

:////an excessively worn area that is recessed near the tip of the striker. ////it was worn over a small area towards the end of the recess away from the tip of the striker.

I think you found the problem.

Me thinks a wannabe gunsmith went after that area with a file to get a "smoother pull" and took off too much. hard to imagine titanium "wearing" away that much riding against a steel trigger bar.

FYI, I suspect that Ti striker would work fine if somebody "squared up" the front face that you say has wear on it.

[hf219]

I think you may have the area in question wrong. The striker area that has excessive wear, is located wear the striker safety button rides on it in the slide. its worn to the point that i definately feel it was a wear issue. it certainly is hard to tell if it was titanium or aluminum or any other metal. It did not appear to have any modifications to it when it was originally installed. I did look over it thoroughly upon initial installation and appeared no different than the stock one. I am a little puzzled and have a few glock armorers in mind to inspect it. I really cant imagine how the wear occured, in my opinion it is excessive for the short amount of rounds i have through the gun since its been installed. maybe around 300 or 400 at most. im just glad that i got the package to finally work. i did shoot RS an email, he did reply and say he wanted to assist me, although i havent heard from him since. as long as it works and doesnt cause unneccasary damage to the gun its fine with me. thanks again for your input

[bountyhunter]

I think you may have the area in question wrong. The striker area that has excessive wear, is located wear the striker safety button rides on it in the slide. its worn to the point that i definately feel it was a wear issue.

OK, got it. FYI, that blocking safety plunger (button) is made out of the hardest metal I've ever seen. I tried to trim it a bit and wore out three files.

One thing I discovered is that you can very easily get a striker release when the trigger has not come back quite far enough to lift the safety plunger completely out of the way. If the striker hits it coming forward, it will beat up the striker. Mine was doing exactly that.

I ended up reshaping the end of the trigger bar so it allowed the trigger to go a shade farther back before it released the striker.

Another point: the plunger that comes with the RS kit is curved on top and consequently does not rise as fast as the stock one, so it may be a shade low when the striker fires.

Bottom line, if you see any "dings" on the striker in the area that mates with the safety plunger, the trigger bar needs to be adjusted.

[hf219]

Thanks for the info. although easier said than done. like i stated before i am just starting to get to know the terrain on this weapon. i feel quite adequate in performing a modification like this, i am just not sure on how its performed. maybe you could expand on this subject. i have yet to pull apart the striker and check it for any further damage. the other thing is that i did not fire the gun with the damaged striker in it. what makes me curious is what caused the striker to be damaged before i installed the RS kit. even though i did not identify damage to the striker before installing it i am certain that it was due to the condition that i encountered before trying to repair,fix, and ultimately replace the striker. i appreciate your help on this. harry

[SouthpawG26]

I had the titanium striker and the stock striker in my hand and accidently mixed them up. i could not identify one over the other

Shouldn't the titanium one have a gold color because of the nitride coating, with the stock one having a silver color? Also, the titanium model has a skeletonized lug, shaft and strikerhead.

Edited May 19, 2006 by SouthpawG26

[bountyhunter]

Thanks for the info. although easier said than done. like i stated before i am just starting to get to know the terrain on this weapon. i feel quite adequate in performing a modification like this, i am just not sure on how its performed. maybe you could expand on this subject. i have yet to pull apart the striker and check it for any further damage. the other thing is that i did not fire the gun with the damaged striker in it. what makes me curious is what caused the striker to be damaged before i installed the RS kit. even though i did not identify damage to the striker before installing it i am certain that it was due to the condition that i encountered before trying to repair,fix, and ultimately replace the striker. i appreciate your help on this. harry

If you have good trigger function with the stock striker, I'd leave the parts alone. Adjusting the release point is done by shaving a bit of material off the upper curved surface of the trigger bar where it engages the lip of the disconnector. That means the trigger bar doesn't drop as fast as the trigger is pulled, delaying striker release. It only takes a slight adjustment there. You measure how much change occurred by measuring where the trigger is when the striker releases.

It's possible that you have the right release point using the stock striker and the RS kit parts.

If the striker tip is hitting the safety plunger, you will see dings on the striker and you may get some light strike misfires.