Adam B Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I am thinking about getting the marine cups, do they make a difference at all? I am using a light striker spring and was thinking that they may solve the once in 1000 or so light primer strikes. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 If you have a Dremel you can make your own marine cups. They have nothing to do with your light primer strikes. You can lighten the striker and solve all your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 What is the best way to lighten a striker and where do I make the cuts on the cups to make them similar to marine cups? Thanks Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Look at some marine cups and use your Dremel to notch the cups. The only reason for marine cups is to allow water past the cups if the firing pin channel is full of water. Lay your striker down with the arm up and toward you, the firing pin pointing away from you. Make a 45 degree cut on the right side of the striker arm. Then reduce the depth of the arm by 1/2. Using your Dremel cut off tool make longitudinal cuts under where the spacer sleeve rides the striker. I run a very light cut down OEM striker spring and get 100% ignition w/CCI primers. Sorry I don't have a camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) does it look like this? http://cpwsa.com/images/striker.jpg Edited April 5, 2006 by Flexmoney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) No, I lighten the OEM striker. Edited April 4, 2006 by the duck of death Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 No, I lighten the OEM striker. I know you lighten the OEM striker, I was just using the pic for reference to where you made the cuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) How did you come to the conclusion that marine cups won't help? Dirty spring cups / firing pin channel is one of the main reasons the quality of my trigger pull deteriorates. If it applies retracting the striker, surely it applies when the striker travels forward. Cutting the bearing surface by 1/2 would sure seem to be a winner from a friction reduction standpoint. If I can get my paws on a mini plastic molding machine, one of my first projects is going to be a marine-like spring cup made out of lube-impregnated Delrin. 99.99% positive that it will have a very beneficial effect on the trigger pull. It may not do much to reduce the weight, but it will do wonders for keeping it more consistent over time. My 2... Edited April 4, 2006 by EricW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 My thoughts exactly Eric! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Hey, have at it when you're done and still have the problem, lighten the striker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 I plan on doing both, I just lightened the striker per your directions and am getting some marine cups from a friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 I hope that helps. I run a cut off OEM striker spring that's very light. With the lightened striker it's 100% w/all primers. In fact my carry loads use CCI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 I hope that helps. I run a cut off OEM striker spring that's very light. With the lightened striker it's 100% w/all primers. In fact my carry loads use CCI. If you cut coils off the OEM striker spring, you actually increased the spring weight, not lightened it -- I'm sure that's not what you meant to say, but just clarifying for anyone who's grinding down their striker, and hacking up their springs.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Whatever you want to call it. I cut some coils off and NOW it's shorter( imagine that). Using the shorter OEM striker spring and a lightened striker + other mods I have a 2lb trigger measured from the center of the trigger. It has minimal take up and you'd be hard pressed to tell it from a well tuned 1911. It 100% reliable and lights off all brands of primers. One thing I'd do, if you don't want to jump into the wild mods is this, and I must warn you I got into heep big trouble last time I posted this. If you reload and use a progressive press, after the round is loaded use a hand primer and make sure all the primers are properly seated. If you use a single stage press I would suggest hand priming using a RCBS hand priming tool. Why the RCBS? It has a baffle to prevent a blown primer from going back into the primer reservoir and detonating all the primers. Like I said I got a lot of static last time this was posted stating how dangerous it is. I've done it for 10 of Ks of loads with no problem. SOOOOOOOO draw your own conclusions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebraskan Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 "If I can get my paws on a mini plastic molding machine, one of my first projects is going to be a marine-like spring cup made out of lube-impregnated Delrin. 99.99% positive that it will have a very beneficial effect on the trigger pull. It may not do much to reduce the weight, but it will do wonders for keeping it more consistent over time." Eric: If you have a machine shop, (mill and lathe) you can get a book on ebay "how to build a plastic injection molding machine" and build a small one yourself. Delrin is available with anywhere from 2%-15% PTFE (Teflon) fill. We use it a lot for bearings, plungers, bushings - anything requiring a molded-in lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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