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2# Trigger Job: A Couple Of Light Strikes


bountyhunter

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I put the 2# trigger kit in my G35 and love the lighter trigger. I shot it today shooting new Sellier + Belott ammo which is pretty decent quality. Out of about 40 rounds, I had two light strike misfires.

1) Both had decent looking primer dimples (but did not fire).

2) I reloaded both for a second whack in the Glock, but no bang.

3) I put both in my SIG 226 and they fired on the first try. The SIG has a reduced power mainspring, so the ammo was not what could be considered "stubborn".... at least not too bad.

On the G35:

1) the striker channel is very clean.

2) I polished the striker very smooth to get minimum drag.

3) The gun shoots a BIC pen out the bore and about six feet across the room, and seems to have a decent amount of strike force compared to other autos I have.

Any Glock tricks to get a little more stricker whack?

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The RS Kit in own 34 has never failed to light any primer but all have been own hand-loads using mostly FED's and about 1K of WIN primers.

S&B can have off center cups, etc. {by rep anyway?} so have never bothered reloading it as it's a royal PITA. Think it's the ammo not the "Kit".......

Might try seeing how far the striker tip protrudes thru the breechface with it pushed fully fwd. Those tiny brass chips still get lodged in just behind the BF but in front of the tip and often don't come out unless they're dug out with a fine wire with a hook, etc. on the end. Own 34 always has them in there fom hand-loads, pipe cleaners don't get all of them normally, IME. Can be an intermittant problem making it all the worse, as can a rough I.D. in the channel liner.

Edited by Bugs Bunny
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Make sure your primers are fully stated. This is critical when using a light striker spring. Also when running a very light striker spring making the striker lighter is a good idea.

It's new factory Sellier + Belott ammo. The reluctant ones fired OK in a Sig 226 with a very light comp mainspring. I think the Glock spring is just a shade light.

Lightening the striker is what also came to my mind:

Any experts out there who have done this and know where and what to grind on..... and how much?

I've seen more than one (I have more than one) firing pin tip of the striker hae some material chipped off.

I'll check it again, but the channel was squeaky clean and the striker tip looked OK.

Edited by bountyhunter
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I hear you. I've gone back to that factory OEM springs in my two Glocks, though the rest of the trigger kit is in place. I replaced the channel liners, spring, played with factory vs. reloads, etc., etc...

At some point, I might try cutting a couple coils off the reduced-power spring and try to arrive at a point somewhat stronger than 4-lbs, but not as stiff as the factory spring. (Weird how cutting coils does the *opposite* of what one would expect -- those wacky springs).

But for now, I'm enjoying Glock Perfection, and the memory of 4 matches in a row with a choking gun (mostly from another problem unrelated to this) is fresh enough my desire to experiment remains...diminished.

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At some point, I might try cutting a couple coils off the reduced-power spring and try to arrive at a point somewhat stronger than 4-lbs, but not as stiff as the factory spring. (Weird how cutting coils does the *opposite* of what one would expect -- those wacky springs).

I'm confused...

It still compresses the spring as the striker is drawn to the rear.

How does cutting coils off a RP spring make it stronger?

Do you stretch the spring after cutting to make it longer?

Edited by bountyhunter
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At some point, I might try cutting a couple coils off the reduced-power spring and try to arrive at a point somewhat stronger than 4-lbs, but not as stiff as the factory spring. (Weird how cutting coils does the *opposite* of what one would expect -- those wacky springs).

I'm confused...

It still compresses the spring as the striker is drawn to the rear.

How does cutting coils off a RP spring make it stronger?

Do you stretch the spring after cutting to make it longer?

No. It has to do with the number of active coils. If you reduce the number of active coils by, say, chopping one or more off the end, you'll *increase* the spring rate in proportion.

If you take the 4-lb Wolff spring (ie, it takes 4lbs to compress the spring 1"), and chop it in half, you'll now have an 8-lb rated spring. Of course what you really would have is trash, since it would probably slide around, loose on the striker. :)

This is my understanding, anyway. I ain't THAT kind of engineer. :)

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Looking down at the striker with the arm up and the tip away from you make a 45 degree cut on the right side of the striker arm. All that engagement surface is not needed. Cut the depth of the striker arm by 1/2. Make longitudinal lightening cuts in the striker where the plastic sleeve rides.

Edited by the duck of death
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Looking down at the striker with the arm up and the tip away from you make a 45 degree cut on the right side of the striker arm. All that engagement surface is not needed. Cut the depth of the striker arm by 1/2. Make longitudinal lightening cuts in the striker where the plastic sleeve rides.

Interesting, might try it..... I was more enthusiastic before I found out replacement strikers are about $40.

BTW, I ran across a Titanium striker they claim weighs 40% less than the stock one.... a bargain at about $80.

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