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Putting an overtravel stop on a Glock


GordonB

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I got one of those "3.5 lb" connector with the tab that could be trimmed to stop the overtravel.  I did not like  it and I am looking for another method of putting one on a Glock.

The only other ones I have seen are external and are therefore no-no's in Production.

Other than the above mentioned product, are there any other internal overtravel stops for the Glock?

Also I was thinking of putting some JB weld on the trigger bar and sand the bump to fit --- like Langdon's speed bump trigger for the Beretta.  Has anybody tried this method?  If so, what epoxy/glue/etc. did you use?  How long did it last?

   

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The one that I got was of a different material than a stock 3.5lb disconnector.  It was thicker and it was stiffer.  I don't know if they have changed the material or not so your experience may be different.

As I understand it, a stock 3.5 connector helps lower the trigger weight by its angle and the pressure (the less the lighter the trigger pull) it puts on the end of the trigger bar.  The GRC was polished (a plus) but as I mentioned it was thicker and of a different material than the stock 3.5 connector.

This caused increased pressure on the trigger bar so that it was considereably and very noticeably heavier than the stock 3.5.  It was also causing the slide to drag more --- the Wolfe 15 lb spring I was using wasn't reliably cycling the slide anymore.  I believed the dragging was caused by the weight of the GRC and the different length and angle the GRC had on the bent portion of the connector that contacts the slide.

I thinned the GRC and bent it somewhat to reduce the pressure.  I also rebent and cut the portion that contacts the slide, but I just couldn't get it to feel as good as the stock 3.5.

Also, Matt from Custom Glock Racing has posted on GT that the he got better results from using the stock 3.5 than the GRC.  He didn't elaborate but I think the above reasons are close to what he experienced.

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