Shadow 2 trigger issue after CGW Flat DA/SA trigger install

[ColoradoNick]

Previous list of mods includes:

11.5lb hammer spring

11lb recoil spring

reduced power plunger spring/extended firing pin 

reduced power trigger return spring

 

 

 

The above has about 1000 rounds on it without a single issue. I installed the new trigger and initially had a problem setting the top set screw the adjusts the double action reset. I made sure I used the correct (shorter) set screw but felt like the window for "adjusted correctly" was extremely small. Too far in and it would lock the trigger back, too far out and it wouldn't reliably reset. The window feels like 1/8 of a turn on an Allen key. I took everything apart and reinstalled it all and got it to function check reliably. Went to the range today and was still having trigger reset issues. I ended up breaking the red loctite and completely removing that top set screw to see if that fixed the problem. It didn't. After the DA shot the trigger would only reset maybe 60% of the time. If I push the trigger forward it will reset. It almost feels like the trigger is binding on something, there's too much friction somewhere, or the reduced power trigger return spring is too soft. Has anyone had this problem before? Any ideas? I'm taking it in to the gunsmith next week to have them hard fit a CGW hammer and also do the disconnect but I was hoping to have it working reliably before then to save some money. 

Edited January 30, 2023 by ColoradoNick

[ColoradoNick]

Heads up on this. I might have missed it but you are not to use the top set screw in the trigger if you aren't using the disconnect. Also the trigger bar spring can be adjusted 

[slavex]

if there are two screws in the trigger the top one is pretravel and the bottom one is overtravel. with the top screw you can shave them down to give you more control of the pretravel adjustment, if they are too long and you screw them in too far they bind on the pin and can stop the trigger from working right. The overtravel screw if screwed in too far will prevent the hammer from dropping in DA and can cause issues in SA as well. With the hammer back, pull and hold the trigger, then rock the hammer back and forth. If you can feel the hammer rubbing or catching on the sear, back the bottom screw out more until that goes away. 

[ColoradoNick]

8 hours ago, slavex said:

if there are two screws in the trigger the top one is pretravel and the bottom one is overtravel. with the top screw you can shave them down to give you more control of the pretravel adjustment, if they are too long and you screw them in too far they bind on the pin and can stop the trigger from working right. The overtravel screw if screwed in too far will prevent the hammer from dropping in DA and can cause issues in SA as well. With the hammer back, pull and hold the trigger, then rock the hammer back and forth. If you can feel the hammer rubbing or catching on the sear, back the bottom screw out more until that goes away. 

CGW told me you cannot use the top screw without their disconnect 

[slavex]

11 hours ago, ColoradoNick said:

CGW told me you cannot use the top screw without their disconnect 

you can, but often the screw needs shortening to work properly. But you can end up with almost no pretravel if you do this. I recommend red loctite once you get the screw in the right spot. 

[ColoradoNick]

1 hour ago, slavex said:

you can, but often the screw needs shortening to work properly. But you can end up with almost no pretravel if you do this. I recommend red loctite once you get the screw in the right spot. 

Thanks, that makes total sense and what it seemed like. I thought I installed the screws backwards initially with the longer one at the top. For now it's removed and they recommended checking the trigger bar spring and tweaking it up a little if necessary. If that doesn't work I'm taking it to the gun smith for the disconnect and hammer anyways. 

Edited February 2, 2023 by ColoradoNick

[Johnny_Chimpo]

Outside of playing with springs, it's best to leave Shadow 2s alone.

[slavex]

I've yet to see a Shadow 2 that needs the trigger bar springs messed with, unless previously messed with by the owner taking out the screw that holds it and the mag catch spring in. Typically people overtighten and twist the trigger bar spring so it doesn't ride right. Or they bend them in an attempt to, I don't know, change them. And that then screws everything up. I've seen maybe 2 Shadows (not Shadow 2s, but regular Shadows) break a trigger bar spring, and both were super high round count guns. 

My newest Armory Craft trigger didn't really have any threads in the top screw hole, the metal there is too thin to really support threads. The included screw fell out when I put the wrench in it. I used red loctite to put a new screw in it, and that's working for now, but I'll probably just replace the trigger at some point with a new one. They specifically don't cover those holes being stripped. 

[pcar157]

@slavex, interesting to hear about your AC trigger not having threads in the top screw hole. I have three of the AC triggers (same profile as TSO) and haven't experienced that problem. I would certainly give Milos a call. I'm sure he will replace that trigger.

[ColoradoNick]

10 hours ago, slavex said:

I've yet to see a Shadow 2 that needs the trigger bar springs messed with, unless previously messed with by the owner taking out the screw that holds it and the mag catch spring in. Typically people overtighten and twist the trigger bar spring so it doesn't ride right. Or they bend them in an attempt to, I don't know, change them. And that then screws everything up. I've seen maybe 2 Shadows (not Shadow 2s, but regular Shadows) break a trigger bar spring, and both were super high round count guns. 

My newest Armory Craft trigger didn't really have any threads in the top screw hole, the metal there is too thin to really support threads. The included screw fell out when I put the wrench in it. I used red loctite to put a new screw in it, and that's working for now, but I'll probably just replace the trigger at some point with a new one. They specifically don't cover those holes being stripped. 

 

I had not touched it previously. I checked the trigger bar spring as recommended in the tutorial on CGW's website and when pulled out from underneath the trigger bar it rested just a hair above the trigger bar. CGW recommended it resting at the top of the trigger bar. I bent both sides up slightly. I'll know in about an hour if that fixed the issue. I guess I don't understand why it operates correctly 100% of the time when dry firing but not when using live ammunition. It leads me to think something is expanding while heating up and causing an issue. I'm contemplating just going back to the stock trigger if it still doesn't work, although I REALLY like the feel of the flat trigger. I'm now reconsidering if I should even install the race hammer and disconnect. I really don't want to deal with the hassle of sending it to CGW. 

Edited February 4, 2023 by ColoradoNick

[slavex]

2 hours ago, pcar157 said:

@slavex, interesting to hear about your AC trigger not having threads in the top screw hole. I have three of the AC triggers (same profile as TSO) and haven't experienced that problem. I would certainly give Milos a call. I'm sure he will replace that trigger.

 

I sent and email off explaining it and didn't get anywhere with it. My other AC trigger has slightly more material in the top hole as have others I've installed, which is a couple dozen. I've got more incoming so will check them and see what they are like. 

[pcar157]

4 hours ago, slavex said:

 

I sent and email off explaining it and didn't get anywhere with it. My other AC trigger has slightly more material in the top hole as have others I've installed, which is a couple dozen. I've got more incoming so will check them and see what they are like. 

Try calling Milos instead of the email route. I found him to be very accommodating.

[ColoradoNick]

Still having the same issue. It's at the gunsmith now. 

[ColoradoNick]

Just to close the loop on this the CGW reduced power trigger reset spring was too weak, replaced it from one off ben stoeger's store and it now functions perfectly. 

Edited February 9, 2023 by ColoradoNick

[Lock-n-load]

I’ve found that the Cajun reduced power trigger return spring is too weak and install the Cz custom improved TRS . Lots better

[ColoradoNick]

4 hours ago, Lock-n-load said:

I’ve found that the Cajun reduced power trigger return spring is too weak and install the Cz custom improved TRS . Lots better

thanks. I have a second Shadow 2 I'm about to upgrade that has a CGW trigger spring that I need to replace before doing the trigger/disco/hammer. I'll probably do another Eric Grauffel spring. I have about 200 rounds through the one I was having issues with and so far it has been perfect. 

[MNshooter]

I have the CGW reduce power TRS in one Shadow 2 and the stock TRS in another. I much prefer the reset of the stock TRS. 

[ColoradoNick]

Just had my other shadow 2 orange done with the same setup and the CGW trigger spring feels great. Must be a little bit of poor QC in the CGW trigger springs. Really weird that the first one wouldn't run at all. 

On 2/12/2023 at 11:53 AM, Lock-n-load said:

I’ve found that the Cajun reduced power trigger return spring is too weak and install the Cz custom improved TRS . Lots better