Lapd Problems With G21

[m4coyote]

ipscbob,

I do not know if it is a fit issue, or inherent in the design. I do know that my G20 will fire if the slide is very slightly out of battery. You can test your own gun by first making sure the magazine is out, and clearing the chamber, then push the slide back just a small amount and pulling the trigger. My G20 will release the striker if the slide is held back about 1/8" to 1/16". The increased tension of the new Wolff recoil spring is obvious and should alleviate this problem.

[SA Friday]

Is the out of battery ignition due to a fit issue with whatever disconnect mechanism exists in the glock or is this inherent in the design?

It's inherent to a couple of types of gun, all with the basic 'glock' blowback striker type design. S&W M&Ps will do this too if the recoil spring is too light. It can be an issue with a light recoil spring and a heavy striker spring. In this case, going to an overpowdered striker spring would lead to wanting a heavier recoil spring to stop the breach from breaking open during trigger pull. The two springs work opposite from each other's forces in the gun.

The issue of the cruciform not being long enough and the firing pin safety not completely clearing the striker are essentially the big issues here. With the new trigger bow in the gun, I would imagine it would work just fine with the stock striker spring again.

[m4coyote]

SA Friday,

If I had replaced the factory striker spring with a unit with more tension, and left the factory recoil unit in place, then I could expect this condition. My gun was firing out of battery out of the box with all factory components installed. I suspect that this was also a contributing factor in the light strikes, because the mouth of the case was not bottomed in the breech. Sometimes it would ignite, sometimes it would not. After noticing the OOB condition with the new 4256-1 trigger bar, I started thumping the rear of the slide after every shot, just to make sure that the slide was indeed fully forward, and each one went bang.

To repeat and reiterate the above, my factory new G20 would most definitely fire several brands of factory ammunition out of battery in its totally stock condition.

[m4coyote]

I went to the range today to test the G20 with the 4256-1 trigger bar, Wolff 6lb. striker spring, Wolff steel guide rod, and the 17lb. recoil spring. The gun functioned perfectly with one hundred rounds of my handloads (180 gr. Hornady XTP over 10.5 gr. Blue Dot), and one hundred rounds of factory UMC 180 gr. FMJ. The slide returned to full battery every time, and there were no light strikes or any other malfunctions. I could not be happier with my G20, because this is the first time that it has even made it through a full fifteen round magazine without a malfunction of some sort, much less two hundred consecutive rounds. More testing is in order, but I am finally starting to have confidence in my G20!

[Rico567]

This is a followup post (see previous above) on the resolution to the failure to fire problem with my G21. I changed out the trigger bar per "m4coyote"s post, from the older 4256 to the current production 4256-1, and my problem went away. (Yes, I am specifically using the WLP primers from the suspect lot HHL351G. I am also loading on the same machine (my Dillon XL650) with no changes or adjustments- and primer seating depth can't really be adjusted on the 650 anyhow. Before the trigger bar swap, ammo reloaded with these primers would yield 2 or 3 failures to fire per magazine. Now, they run 100%. I suggest that anyone who does not have the latest production trigger bar switch to it; too cheap not to.

[Suburban Commando]

I have now run into the light strike problem. My 21 ran fine on Remington UMC and Federal HST, but it just wouldn't light some of the WLP primers in my latest reloads. I had used the same primers in several-times-fired nickel plated brass without a problem, but with once fired Remington brass it went something like "bang bang click bang bang bang click. . ."

I haven't shot the pistol much since then, but the -1 trigger bar seems to help a lot, firing some of the rounds that the old trigger bar just wouldn't pop.

[Jay6]

This is a followup post (see previous above) on the resolution to the failure to fire problem with my G21. I changed out the trigger bar per "m4coyote"s post, from the older 4256 to the current production 4256-1, and my problem went away. (Yes, I am specifically using the WLP primers from the suspect lot HHL351G. I am also loading on the same machine (my Dillon XL650) with no changes or adjustments- and primer seating depth can't really be adjusted on the 650 anyhow. Before the trigger bar swap, ammo reloaded with these primers would yield 2 or 3 failures to fire per magazine. Now, they run 100%. I suggest that anyone who does not have the latest production trigger bar switch to it; too cheap not to.

Does anyone have a link to the new trigger bar and enhanced striker spring?

[dirty whiteboy]

Try changing just the trigger bar first.

http://glockparts.com/store/item/idyp/Trig..._-_G-20_21.html

[Jay6]

Try changing just the trigger bar first.

http://glockparts.com/store/item/idyp/Trig..._-_G-20_21.html

Thanks, I have been having problems with this recently but at first I thought it was the new press I was using (SDB). I usually get 2-3 light strikes per 100 rounds even though I try and check the primers ahead of time. I will give this a shot because it is really killing my match times.

[CATM1]

Its the loads not the gun ! They sure are better off with the G21 than the M-9's

What's your level of experience with the M9, and what problems have you encountered?

[Jay6]

Ok, what would be the downside of also putting in a stronger firing pin spring along with the new trigger bar? I am currently running a reduced recoil spring, would have to put that back to stock?

Edited April 28, 2008 by Jay6

[dirty whiteboy]

Ok, what would be the downside of also putting in a stronger firing pin spring along with the new trigger bar? I am currently running a reduced recoil spring, would have to put that back to stock?

You won't like your trigger! It will raise the pull a # or so!!

I run the old trigger bar with a 4# striker spring and a 5 lb connector.

BUT I only use Federal primers. The primers have solved all my light strike problems. You may want to try the wolff primers if you stay with the stock striker spring.

You can keep using the lighter recoil spring.

Edited April 28, 2008 by dirty whiteboy