GunRunner Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 Hi I didn't know where the proper place for this was so i put it here. I'm interested in competition in the future, but for now i want to mainly improve my shooting. I'm a mediocre shot but i enjoy it a lot and would like to also develop Point shooting skills. And at this time Cost is a major factor at this time. I currently have a Sig P226 and have just purchased a Charles Daly SS EFS, full size 1911. I know many dislike the CD but of the few people i know who own one have been well pleased with theirs and have no reservations about buying another. And for a little over $400 for Stainless and its features i'm well pleased. And yes i plan on upgrading it for reliability as i go. Later i'll work on its accuracy when i start being able to out shoot it. One step at a time. But back to my point... In order to become more proficent i've come up with this plan and would like comments as to what you think about it. I've been wanting a Ruger Mk II for a long while for a plinking gun and after getting the 1911 i'm wanting to get the 10/45 version. My rationalization behind this is its similar to the 1911 in grip, safety, mag release... (yes i know not in recoil and weight) AND i can get 22LRs at WallyWorld for $9 per 550. Since i expect i'll need to do a Lot of shooting to become proficent, or even mildy proficent, the cost of ammo is a real factor. I'd be able to shoot 1100 rnds a weekend with the 22 compared to 100 rnds with the 45 for abt the same cost. Big Difference! I'm more interested in steel than paper shooting. I've always loved plinking and steel is more like plinking than paper, at least to me. Feedback, sound and when you hit it it moves! I'm wanting to build some Mini Poppers for 22LR pistol only, a friend has a CNC plasma cutter (that he scratch built) and has volunteered to cut them out for me, hes also interested in buying his first pistol, a 22LR, so all i'll have in them is material costs. And another person to shoot with. Is 3/16" mild steel good enough for 22LR only poppers? I know most mfg of poppers recommend 1/4" for 22LR and 3/8 for larger but 22LR has a lot less force than a 45, 9mm.. But in a smaller surface area. BTW I just ordered Brians book ZEN and the Art of Pistol Shooting aka Practical Shooting, Beyond Fundamentals. Thanks for any input! mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 Mike, I got nothing for you on that one. And, thanks for my first official (through the website) PayPal order. (Kyle was the first unofficial order, because he ordered stuff at a "deal" for his gun club awards banquet.) I'm going to move this one into the Don't fit... be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted November 28, 2001 Share Posted November 28, 2001 Mike, my brother is a welder/machinist and he makes Silhouette Targets for the Blackpowder Cartridge crowd. I had him make me some poppers and and have several of his other steel offerings as well. <---This is just to show I have some knowledge here, but still take it for what its worth... I would recommend 1/4" mild steel for .22 stuff. I have some smallbore .22 silhouettes that are 3/8" and they will probably last forever, but would be too heavy if full size. The 3/16" would get dented up over time, relatively quickly I am afraid (unless maybe it was T-1, I don't know about this). I actually go 1/2" mild steel on my poppers and they hold up amazingly well to 9mm, .40, .45, and .38 Super. 3/8" is actually "legal" but should be T1 or harder if you expect it to last a long time. We just happen to have a good cheap supply of 1/2" mild and T-1 is expensive in small quantities here. On the .22, Rugers are great. I have one that I enjoy shooting. However, I am really drooling over one of these .22 conversions: http://www.marvelprod.com and http://www.marvelprod.com/beauty.htm I have read a lot about them and they are supposed to be great. That would let you practice with as much as possible that is exactly the same as your CD because have of it would be the same! They aren't cheap but the accuracy is supposed to be better than any other conversion out there. Just something to think about. Great buy on the book in my opinion. I am working on reading mine for the second time. (Edited by DBChaffin at 4:25 pm on Nov. 28, 2001) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted November 28, 2001 Author Share Posted November 28, 2001 Thanks for the input DB! My friend also recommended the 1/4" mild steel, hes a Machinist/Welder. I just thought i'd see if anyone who shot 22s had input. I have to admit the 3/8" for 45s seemed like it would be borderline to me, I'll keep the 1/2" for them in mind too in mind too! That is a nice looking conversion, i really hadn't considered going that route, until now (probably mental block since i want a 10/45). I'll give it some thought. Thanks again! mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted November 29, 2001 Share Posted November 29, 2001 Mike, glad I could be of some help. 1/2" mild works great for the large calibers (and the hot ones too), but it sure is a pain to tote a 1/2" mild steel full size popper around! I don't mind though because the price was great I don't think you would go wrong with a Ruger, but I just wanted to let you know about the Marvel because I myself am VERY tempted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted November 29, 2001 Author Share Posted November 29, 2001 I appreciate it DB, I like to know all of my options, even in spite of myself. Does your brother hand, patern or cnc cut the targets? Gary, the M/W friend, built a patern cutter a long time ago and it worked OK but he didn't buy the good magnet to follow the patern. That would have made a lot of difference, and their not that hard or expensive to make although you need a inline torch designed for them. The CNC is great especially with an inexpensive hand held plasma cutter, but a lot more complex and expensive to make. You need to make sure you have a plasma cutter rated for 100% duty cycle. I plan on making the poppers self resetting and am considering using a screen door spring for that, Have you tried this and if so how did it work out? BTW do you know of any sites to get some paterns and sizes for Bowling Pins etc ? I wouldn't mind trying other shapes too. I have the info for the poppers off the IPSC site. Thanks mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted November 29, 2001 Share Posted November 29, 2001 (Edited by DBChaffin at 3:33 pm on Nov. 29, 2001) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted November 29, 2001 Share Posted November 29, 2001 He has been cutting by hand with a plasma cutter, but he just purchased a pattern torch. It's the type that has the "seeing eye" that follows the template and cuts out a whole sheet's worth of targets. We have not tried self-resetting poppers. Let me know how they work. Mine have an "arm" attached that lets you tie a rope to it so they can be stood up without walking down range in case the range is busy. He has some "swingers" for black powder and I have shot some of those. Pretty simple and work pretty well. I also have a little .22 silhouette plate rack that is rope resettable. Sorry, but I don't know of any places to get shapes. I think my brother got his silhouette stuff directly from the NRA. No idea on bowling pins though. Maybe someone else here can help or a good search engine can turn something up. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted November 29, 2001 Share Posted November 29, 2001 I've got bowling pin specs stashed <A href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/austinpinshooters/files">here</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted November 29, 2001 Author Share Posted November 29, 2001 Thanks shread! I've been looking on the web for over an hour to find that. I was beginning to think it would turn into a Quest! Thanks again! mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunRunner Posted November 29, 2001 Author Share Posted November 29, 2001 DB, That cutter sounds like it would be a lot less trouble than G codes or drawing it up in CAD and converting it then editing the G codes. I'm assuming that it reads a Printed Outline and cuts accordingly from the starting point. Have you ever used the resetable swingers? I was curious as to how the reset mechanism worked. I'll let you know on the self resetting mini poppers. My idea may not work, but its worth a shot. If nothing else I can modify the test unit for rope and lever reset. I read on one site that for 22LR you need less than 8oz of pressure on the top of a silhoullette for calibrating it to a 22. I'll use that as a reference. I figure all you need is enough spring to stand the popper back up after its hit. I'm planning on using a spring point that gives more leverage when its laid back and progressively less as it stands. It should work OK, and possibly better than the ones using a torsional spring. That way the Popper, Pin... will swing back further when hit and take less inital force to drop. mike (Edited by GunRunner at 4:30 pm on Nov. 29, 2001) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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