1911 slide stop/saftey plunger question

[Makicjf]

Howdy,

           I replaced the factory ambi safety on both my 9mm single stack and my Rock ultra HC that I converted from 10 mm to 40.  I had serious issues disengaging the safety with the ambi:  I'd ride the safety with  my thumb out of the holster, but the first knuckle of my index finger would push up on the safety.  I was fighting my own hand and twisting slop into the safety.  Both extended single side safeties function very well, click up and down sweetly... however I managed to lose the safety plunger assembly for one of them and had to replace it.  If I use the older, factory safety plunger assembly, the slide stop functions even with the use  of the 40 cal HC with factory mags, Taylor Freelance Rock extension and Grams 11 coil springs ( 21 reloadable after a bit of use).  If I use the new  plunger assembly the slide stop is very stiff and will not engage on empty.   I'm torn:  should I simply allow the new spring to wear in; should I modify the plungers to allow slide lock now ( which may allow early slide lock as the spring wears); or simply let it go, as the only time  I slide lock is at home during practice.The pistol has functioned well with the stiff plunger spring.  The heavy slide stop function could work as insurance against the potential  of a blunt nosed bullet engaging the slide stop.

I'm learning a new grip, a new division and putting together a new gun from a low budget start ( Rock Island 10mm ultra HC) .  I'd appreciate any advice!

Jason

Edited February 13, 2020 by Makicjf

[jcc7x7]

File or dremel the safety's to fit your hand. Relieve the offending areas.

 

Plunger sounds like at minimum needs to be deburred.

And then polish both caps and the rear of slide stop and frt of safety.  Check proper alignment of safety detent.

[Makicjf]

2 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:

File or dremel the safety's to fit your hand. Relieve the offending areas.

 

Plunger sounds like at minimum needs to be deburred.

And then polish both caps and the rear of slide stop and frt of safety.  Check proper alignment of safety detent.

The Bullet Proof extended safety seems to fit my hand far better then the ambi factory part. The right side of the factory safety contacted my knuckle almost from the start.  Polishing the caps and the interfacing portions of the safety and slide stop seems like a simple and rational approach.  I have a new slide stop ordered, so that will wait until it arrives.    What system do you use for checking safety plunger/detent alignment?

Thanks!

Jason

[Makicjf]

I polished all the contract points and it locks back without fail with all mags.

Thanks for the help!

Jason

[Ming the Merciless]

12 hours ago, Makicjf said:

Howdy,

           I replaced the factory ambi safety on both my 9mm single stack and my Rock ultra HC that I converted from 10 mm to 40.  I had serious issues disengaging the safety with the ambi:  I'd ride the safety with  my thumb out of the holster, but the first knuckle of my index finger would push up on the safety.  I was fighting my own hand and twisting slop into the safety.  Both extended single side safeties function very well, click up and down sweetly... however I managed to lose the safety plunger assembly for one of them and had to replace it.  If I use the older, factory safety plunger assembly, the slide stop functions even with the use  of the 40 cal HC with factory mags, Taylor Freelance Rock extension and Grams 11 coil springs ( 21 reloadable after a bit of use).  If I use the new  plunger assembly the slide stop is very stiff and will not engage on empty.   I'm torn:  should I simply allow the new spring to wear in; should I modify the plungers to allow slide lock now ( which may allow early slide lock as the spring wears); or simply let it go, as the only time  I slide lock is at home during practice.The pistol has functioned well with the stiff plunger spring.  The heavy slide stop function could work as insurance against the potential  of a blunt nosed bullet engaging the slide stop.

I'm learning a new grip, a new division and putting together a new gun from a low budget start ( Rock Island 10mm ultra HC) .  I'd appreciate any advice!

Jason

 

If you're riding the safety (dis-engaging it) out of the holster, that's a real good way to shoot yourself in the foot, literally and figuratively!

[Makicjf]

8 hours ago, Ming the Merciless said:

 

If you're riding the safety (dis-engaging it) out of the holster, that's a real good way to shoot yourself in the foot, literally and figuratively!

I'll write it out by the numbers:

Strong hand obtains firing grip; thumb rides on engaged saftey; index finger straight along holster.  Support hand against mid stomach.

2) Draw straight up until my arm locks out ; rotate muzzle down range; index finger indexed on slide stop pin bump , thumb disengages saftey . 

3. Push gun out, meet support hand,  aquire sights/target and index finger enters trigger guard. When sights align on target depress.

 I'm pretty cautious as regards to slack take up on the push out.  After years of da revolvers, I'm fearful I'll roll on the trigger instead of feeling the wall.

The saftey is engaged until the gun is pointed downrange and my finger is out of the trigger guard until I'm into pushout  and sights are on target. 

Is there a better, safer method?

I've also left the trigger at about 5 lbs and fit the thumb saftey so it requires effort to depress.

Jason

 

Edited February 14, 2020 by Makicjf

[jcc7x7]

Pretty sure all but one of us understood what you where doing.

Guess it's always good to remind all of us about safety

[Ming the Merciless]

4 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:

Pretty sure all but one of us understood what you where doing.

Guess it's always good to remind all of us about safety

 

Never assume.

[jcc7x7]

Didn't ask for your input

Edited February 16, 2020 by jcc7x7

[Ming the Merciless]

23 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:

Didn't ask for you're input

 

Thanks, you're welcome!