Bobing A Hammer

[chp5]

OK – it’s not a competition revolver, but here’s my question.

I have a line on an older S&W J frame M37 Airweight (1967 vintage). The owner wants $149 for it. The blueing is worn, but not terrible. For that price, I’m considering picking it up.

However, I’d want to bob the hammer. Can I get this job done with my trusty Dremel and a file – or is it a bigger job than that? Any help appreciated.

BTW – are these older Airweights as durable (e.g., can take +p ammo) and as light as the newer Airweights?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Byron Simpson]

That's an outstanding price and you ought to snag it. You can get a spare hammer from Numrich or probably even Ebay and bob that one. It could be done with a Dremel and file without much problem. Good luck.

[Carmoney]

Yep, take the hammer out and use the cut-off wheel to remove the spur. Then grind it to shape with a little sanding drum, rough-polish with a cratex tip, then put the dremel away and use sandpaper and finally steel wool to leave a nice smooth finish. No file needed.

[revchuck]

BTW – are these older Airweights as durable (e.g., can take +p ammo) and as light as the newer Airweights?

Cy - They're not as durable as the present ones, and S&W will tell you not to shoot +P in the older ones. However, my "Gamer Airweight" (three inch M37 no-dash) has made it through a few boxes of Federal 158 grain +P LSWC-HPs without a problem.

The issue with older alloy frame S&Ws isn't that they'll blow up with +Ps, but that wear accelerates with +P ammo. If you get it - and at $149, it's a steal - decide what you want to carry in it, shoot enough of that load to know how the gun behaves with it, and then practice with standard velocity ammo.

Few J frames are ever worn out by shooting, even the older alloy frame ones.

[chp5]

Thanks for the replies and advice!

Cy