1050 For .223 Case Prep

[D.Hayden]

I'm thinking of using my 1050 for more than 40S&W finally.

First step, I want to use it to process all the .223 once fired brass I've been accumulating (LC mostly with some Rem mixed in).

I want to put the full length sizer on, and the trimmer on, so the cases will be lubed with Dillon case lube.

My question (finally): How much transfer of the lube to the press and case feeder will there be? And, do I have to worry about it gunking everything up?

After they're all prepped, I'll change out either the whole toolhead or just the dies, and load 'normally'.

[DougCarden]

Dave, for what it is worth.....I have two 1050s and religously use dillon case lube on all calibers I use, so I dont think you will have problems. Use a rag with a little laquer thinner to remove the lube residue from the case feeder plate and the drop tube now and then. The only question is if the lubed .223 brass chunks will cause a problem with the case trimmer. Hopefully someone else with more experience can chime in.

[Patrick Sweeney]

I've prepped buckets of .223 on a 1050. The trimmer cuttings won't be a problem at all. Be sure and adjust the primer swage station to remove military crimps. You might be tempted by the lower cost of swapping dies in the toolhead. But after doing it a few times, and fussing endlessly, you'll just do what we did: two assemblies, one for prep, and one for loading. Once adjusted, nothing to fuss over.

[D.Hayden]

Thanks to you both...

I figure I have 16 toolheads for my 550's... I'd do the same with the 1050..

[D.Hayden]

Followup - what's a fast way to chamfer the brass? Or do you bother?

I'm not looking for bench rest accuracy here.. I've always chamfered inside and out - maybe I can skip it

[Patrick Sweeney]

I didn't ever bother chamfering, but I use a Redding straight-line bullet seater. Without it I was getting nasty crushed cases once in a while with boat-tail bullets, and every tenth case with flatbase. After I switched, I got none.

[D.Hayden]

Thanks Patrick...

I have the Redding Comp Seater on my 550 (for .223) - that the same thing?

[Patrick Sweeney]

I got it a long time ago, and don't remember which model. It has a window on the saide, and you dump the bullet into the window. The die then holds the bullet in place, and as the case rises, the die holds the bullet centered for the rising case to accept it.

[D.Hayden]

Thanks Patrick... I've seen those somewhere... I'll look around..

[D.Hayden]

I finally ran about 1,000 cases through - like butter..

Couple of questions for those that have done it..

When Swagging, do the primer pockets look anywhere as clean as the Dillon manual shows? Just want to make sure I've got it adjusted right.

[Nik Habicht]

I finally ran about 1,000 cases through - like butter..

Couple of questions for those that have done it..

When Swagging, do the primer pockets look anywhere as clean as the Dillon manual shows?  Just want to make sure I've got it adjusted right.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Be very careful when adjusting the swager ---- it's possible to crack a shell plate. I prefer to adjust it with a sectioned in half case in the station, so I can see what I'm doing....

[D.Hayden]

Nik.. thanks for that suggestion - perfect.

It's funny, I was thinking earlier, it'd be cool to have a clear case to see how fast the powder actually fell into the case, to give me an idea how fast I could go

cutting up a case took 10 minutes with handtools to check the swage - and it raises my comfort level seeing what's going on in there..

[Gun Geek]

I didn't ever bother chamfering, but I use a Redding straight-line bullet seater. Without it I was getting nasty crushed cases once in a while with boat-tail bullets, and every tenth case with flatbase. After I switched, I got none.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Same here. Use a boattail and a good seater and you'll get 0 problems with the cases or with shaving the jacket.

I also make sure the cases get a little lube in the neck (necessary to keep the expander ball from pulling the neck up from the shoulder). The lube also helps keep the bullet from crushing the case, and it makes it go down straighter, so it doesn't shave on an edge. Since you are doing this in 2 steps and (I'm assuming) cleaning the lube off between steps, you might want to re-lube the inside of the necks. This is a maybe - you'll just have to try it.

[Nik Habicht]

Nik.. thanks for that suggestion - perfect.

It's funny, I was thinking earlier, it'd be cool to have a clear case to see how fast the powder actually fell into the case, to give me an idea how fast I could go

cutting up a case took 10 minutes with handtools to check the swage - and it raises my comfort level seeing what's going on in there..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I cracked at least two shell plates, might have been three, before thinking of that trick. It was an expensive lesson.....