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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

budget friendly factory AMMO suggestions for a STOCK II


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I would like to get an idea of what ammo Factory wise people are having good luck with in their modified stock twos I know Freedom munition use a CCI primers and are not the most reliable but what is out there as I'm just now getting 9mm and not planning on reloading at least for a while here is my current setup to help out

 

Titan Hammer 

PD reemed barrel 

BOLO 

9lb recoil spring 

1 piece sear

14lb PD hammer spring 

 

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People tell me FM are no good BUT I'm my experience they do the job well and at $8.86 per 50 rounds ....can't beat that

 

Plus....they make Power Factor at 128- 130PF

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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My gun ran on CCIs 100% with a 15.5 PD spring and all of the same internals you're running. 

 

You don't have any room for error when it comes to having everything polished and fitted perfectly, but pull that off and the gun will run anything except for ancient soviet-bloc surplus ammo. It might even run that, I just haven't tried it.

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How many rounds do you shoot?  If it's over 10k per year, it's time to get a press and start reloading.  I resisted for as long as I could because I said "I don't need another hobby".  Well eventually the 500 round practice sessions were taking too much of a toll on the wallet with factory ammo so I gave in and never looked back.  

 

My rough costs:

$.06 - Bullets (Blue Bullets 147gr)

$.025 - Primers (Winchester small pistol)

$.00 - $.02 - Brass (reuse your own, or buying once-fired range brass)

$.006 - Powder (Hodgon Titegroup)

 

So $.09-$.11 per round.  You won't touch that with any other ammo AND you'll be getting a much higher quality ammo that you can tune to your exact need and what your gun likes.

 

Cost of entry varies from let's say $500 (Dillon Square Deal press) to $1000 or more depending on what level of press you get.  I have a Dillon XL650 and it's great.  Of course I added the Mr. Bullet Feeder and the Dillon Case Feeder so I'm over $1000 on the cost, but I can load a lot of rounds very quickly with excellent quality.  Just don't think of the reloading as something that's going to actually save you money, it's more like it lets you shoot a lot more rounds for the same amount you would have spent on factory ammo.

 

 

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You should have decent luck (ignition wise) with any of the NEW ammo that has projectile profiles that pass the "plunk, thump, spin and dump" test. Except sellier and bellot,  i think they use a much harder cup. The strike dimple is shallower, but they do go off in my gun.

I've even run the aluminum case ammo with reliability. With NEW ammo you should be fine using 14 # hammer spring. If the polish is good, you could go lower with good ammo.

 

I also STRONGLY agree with MemphisMechanic that switching to a 15.5# PD spring will make the gun match reliable for any ammo. I run them exclusively now in all the DA tanfos. With my FULLY POLISHED gun it's 5# 12oz with a brand new spring and 5# 6-8oz with a "worn out " one. I could use down to a 12# with winchester primers and be 100% on da, but want to KNOW it will go bang even if a slightly wonky condition happens.  plus SA drops too low. It's right at 1# with the 12#pd about 14oz with the 10#pd.  way too low for this clumsy oaf!

 

The real "inexpensive" ammo is aftermarket reloads and some are low cost, where others are just cheap. Poorly cleaned brass,  random oal, not fully seated primers, missing crimps, etc etc. Sadly even the good companies will ship  bad reloads on occasion. 

 

Your gun, your choice... but either new ammo and the light spring or purchased  reloaded ammo and the heavier spring. Those combinations will be most robust.

 

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