Gunsmithing An Lda Trigger?

[Duane Thomas]

I'm working on an article on Para-Ordnance's LDA Limited 9 for Gun World, and I have a question. Just how light with ignition reliability can a skilled pistolsmith get the LDA trigger? Can that "hitch" toward the end of the trigger pull when you hit the "link" be gotten rid of? Any answers in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

[Chriss Grube]

Mine is light and smooth. George at EGW did it. He left it at about 3.5 because I used it as a carry gun also. He said he could get it a lot lighter. Give him a call I'm sure he can give you the answers you need.

[JohnRodriguez]

My 16.40 limited run hair over 2.5lbs. That last little resistance is para's 80's design being taken up. the way I reduced mine was to pean that particular part oversize so it is taken up before it gets to the end of the trigger travel. You would have to see my gun to see what I mean. I do my own gunsmith work. Live out here in the boonies of New Mexico and you have to learn how to do your own work

When all else fails, call up Para and order the lightened trigger parts for the LDA, They will reduce your pull by about 3 lbs. After I ruined my first trigger (and it was a nice trigger, before I got too crazy with the stone) Para's factory parts reduced the weight very nicely. The parts from them will set you back about $60. Much cheaper than the original SA trigger parts.

I don't think there are any smith's out there who no how to work on the LDA trigger, much less put the thing back together when they take one apart. I understand that Todd J. has a box of ruined trigger parts from experimenting with getting a LDA's trigger smoothed out.

[bountyhunter]

When all else fails, call up Para and order the lightened trigger parts for the LDA, They will reduce your pull by about 3 lbs.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can you enlighten us as to what parts are replaced? My 1640 LDA has a very stout trigger return spring that eats up at least 1.5# of trigger pull. I would definitely like to know how you got down to 2.5#.

[bountyhunter]

I just called Para factory and they say they do not offer any parts which reduce the LDA trigger pull. I called dawson precision and they said the only trigger pull reduction kits for Para are for the stock 1911, not the LDA.

Anybody know where there is a reduction kit for the LDA available?

[bountyhunter]

I don't think there are any smith's out there who no how to work on the LDA trigger, much less put the thing back together when they take one apart.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Jay Krauter knows how to slick up an LDA. He runs the factory Para service center and does work on the side. I used to have his number but it got lost in the move.

[bountyhunter]

I'm working on an article on Para-Ordnance's LDA Limited 9 for Gun World, and I have a question. Just how light with ignition reliability can a skilled pistolsmith get the LDA trigger? Can that "hitch" toward the end of the trigger pull when you hit the "link" be gotten rid of? Any answers in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

"Can that "hitch" toward the end of the trigger pull when you hit the "link" be gotten rid of?"

I'm not sure I know what link you mean. The LDA trigger assembly is quite complex, but I don't know of a "link". The hammer is two main pieces: an outer hollow "shell" with a solid inner "cocking cam" which is driven by the hammer spring. The slide pushing the hammer back rotates the cocking cam into the cocked positon, setting the hammer (cocking cam's) hook on the sear hook. As the slide comes forward, the outer hammer body is free to come forward to rest against the slide. There are two "cups" on the hammer body which grab the sear, preventing it from accidentally releasing from the cocking cam when the hammer is forward.

When the trigger is pulled:

1) The trigger bar starts forward and it's right angle hook catches the hook on the bottom tail of the hammer. As the trigger is pulled, the hammer draws back. Eventually, the trigger bar hook reaches the point where it contacts the sear (that is the break point where the pull gets much stiffer).

During the trigger pull, the FP safety "platform" raises up to lift the series 80 block in the slide.

2) As the sear is released from the hammer hook, the cocking cam spins forward (taking the hammer with it) to fire the gun.

There is another critical action: as the cocking cam spins forward, a raised edge on the underside of it must drive the trigger bar downward to allow the hammer to pass by the trigger bar and strike the FP.

[bountyhunter]

I'm working on an article on Para-Ordnance's LDA Limited 9 for Gun World, and I have a question. Just how light with ignition reliability can a skilled pistolsmith get the LDA trigger? Can that "hitch" toward the end of the trigger pull when you hit the "link" be gotten rid of? Any answers in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Here is another thread with info on LDA triggers:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=539&hl=

[JohnRodriguez]

I took my LDA out of mothballs last night and the trigger measured in at 3 lbs 4 ounces. I believe the main spring is a 19 lb, I think I was having light strikes with a 17lb.

The parts list and diagram can be gotten on pars's web site, these are the part numbers that I replaced.

The part I first screwed up was #55 (cocking cam) the replacement had a much better sear surface than the original. get a couple of these just in case

#47 (sear spring), just like any other 1911 spring, tweek it till it suits you

#61 (drawbar platform) polish it

#5 (drawbar) polish it, remove burrs

#45 (sear) work on angles like regular 1911

#17 (hammer) This is the one para sells a lightened version of, just like a bobbed hammer on there smaller concealed 1911's

#19 (hammer strut) the replacement was square, where as the original was crooked, and was probably binding up when compressing the mainspring.

#52 (staddle) polish it

#35 (plunger lever) This is the part that I peaned the lower take up point on it. so the lever will pick up a little earlier, instead of at the end of the trigger travel where it all comes on at once.

#54 (trigger return spring) never replace it, but might not hurt to ask of a lighter spring is available

When I had first gotten my LDA (it's one the first limited LDA made), para didn't have the blow up diagram on there site and even before I fired a shot thru the gun, I took it apart and tightned the frame and slide (hopfully one of these days para will stop making sloppy fit guns). my intentions was to take a picture of the gun as I carefully took the thing apart, and when I took the beaver tail off the parts came flying out, so much for the picture. I got to learn how to put the thing back together the hard way, took me about 3 hours to figure it out. When I ordered the replacement parts, para still did not have a diagram of the gun and had to describe the parts to the lady who took my order, and that's when she informed me that a lightned hammer was available, since my attempt at bobbing the hammer didn't go to well.

If this info helps you, good deal. If you want a kit handed to you on a golden platter, good luck trying to find one.

[bountyhunter]

I took my LDA out of mothballs last night and the trigger measured in at 3 lbs 4 ounces.  I believe the main spring is a 19 lb, I think I was having light strikes with a 17lb.

If this info helps you, good deal.  If you want a kit handed to you on a golden platter, good luck trying to find one.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have polished, reworked and lightened all of the above. I suspect we may have different generation guns (my 1640 LDA is one of the year 1999?). On mine, it takes a bit over 3# of trigger force just to move the trigger (and deflect the hammer) up to the point before the sear is engaged That 3+# is the force of these springs:

the trigger return spring

the hammer "kickback" spring

sear spring

FP blocking plunger spring

Most of that 3+# is in the trigger return spring. On mine, the trigger return requires a very heavy spring to get a positive return.

I got mine down to total trigger break pull of about 4.3# and that's as low as it will go with fully reliable ignition. I could go a little lower with a lighter hammer spring, but I could only shoot reloads with soft primers (I shoot factory ammo now).

[Chriss Grube]

John,

You need to get out of the sticks and come out in the real world more often. George Smith at EGW does great work on the LDA(along with damn near every other type of gun). TJ has it down to an art. I think Novaks was doing them also. I seriously doubt Para is going to sell any parts kits to lower the trigger pull. It all comes back to that little thing called liability!

[bountyhunter]

I seriously doubt Para is going to sell any parts kits to lower the trigger pull. It all comes back to that little thing called liability!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

But I seriously don't understand why Dawson or C+S isn't offering one. The primary improvenment would be obtained by changing out three parts: the cocking cam, sear, and hammer spring.

#45 (sear) work on angles like regular 1911

Interesting: both of my LDA's sears (original and replacement installed under warranty repair) have a sear face that is a "radius cut", ie rounded not flat. Clearly, a typical 1911 cutting jig will not work on an LDA sear.... you basically have to reshape the curve and keep trying it to dial it in.

[Duane Thomas]

I'm not sure I know what link you mean. The LDA trigger assembly is quite complex, but I don't know of a "link".

"Link" is a term that refers to the point in the trigger's rearward travel where all the slack has been taken out and you suddenly hit firm resistance. It's also used to refer to the reset point as you release the trigger after firing a shot.

[Flexmoney]

So...you are looking for the...missing link? (Bad joke, I know...need sleep)

[Thomas Moore]

don't know if he is still doing it but todd jarrett offered to take my trigger group and make it like his. todd had the lightest lda trigger i ever felt at one of the factory gun nationals.

shoot him an email (pun intended) and see what he has to say.

[Flexmoney]

John Booth was playing with doing LDA triggers as well. He got tips from TJ (a long time ago). John is tight with Wayne Novak.

[stingerjg]

Jim Anglin

Sailors custom Pistols

402 451 0797

Does wonders with a LDA

[bountyhunter]

I'm not sure I know what link you mean. The LDA trigger assembly is quite complex, but I don't know of a "link".

"Link" is a term that refers to the point in the trigger's rearward travel where all the slack has been taken out and you suddenly hit firm resistance. It's also used to refer to the reset point as you release the trigger after firing a shot.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In an LDA, the "hard wall" is where the trigger draw bar hits the sear.

The trigger reset point is WAY farther forward and it is where the drawbar has returned far enough to re-catch the tail hook on the bottom of the hammer. In mine, that physical position is only about 1/10" from the triggers forward most position. That is why it needs such a stiff trigger return spring. It is dragging the trigger bar across the innards all the way forward.

[bountyhunter]

don't know if he is still doing it but todd jarrett offered to take my trigger group and make it like his. todd had the lightest lda trigger i ever felt at one of the factory gun nationals.

shoot him an email (pun intended) and see what he has to say.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Would be great if Mr Jarrett would write a short tutorial explaining how to do this magic. We promise not to tell anybody.