223 Trim Die cam-over on 1050

[ams30gts]

When using the 223 trim die on my 1050 I have to cam-over quite a bit to get the case within SAAMI spec.  This puts quite a bit of pressure on the weak shell plate and I would hate to have to buy another which I already had to do.  When I see youtube videos of others processing 223, I don't see their tool heads flex as much as mine does.

I use a LE Wilson Case Gauge to check the cases.

Anyone have a fix for this?

[dillon]

Usually 1/4 turn or a bit more past touching the shellplate will size a case to SAAMI minimum. Be sure to clean the interior of the gage, and remove all case lube from the sized case before gaging.

[Henny]

I know when I had this problem with my trim die the guy working Dillon's help line told me to hit the bottom if the die with some sandpaper and take a few thousandths off. I did and things work fine!

[rjacobs]

6 hours ago, ams30gts said:

 

I use a LE Wilson Case Gauge to check the cases.

Anyone have a fix for this?

Throw out that case gauge, buy the Hornady case comparator setup, measure a known good piece of factory brass(I use Federal Gold Medal Match) and replicate said measurement.

If you still cant get to where you need to be, then do as Henny posted and sand the base of the die a little bit at a time until you can get where you need to be without over stressing the machine.

[ams30gts]

On 9/20/2016 at 9:16 PM, rjacobs said:

Throw out that case gauge, buy the Hornady case comparator setup, measure a known good piece of factory brass(I use Federal Gold Medal Match) and replicate said measurement.

If you still cant get to where you need to be, then do as Henny posted and sand the base of the die a little bit at a time until you can get where you need to be without over stressing the machine.

Just bought one.  I just ordered a Mark 7 to replace my PW autodrive.  Will hopefully get it all nice and setup early next week.

Edited September 22, 2016 by ams30gts

[rjacobs]

6 hours ago, ams30gts said:

Just bought one.  I just ordered a Mark 7 to replace my PW autodrive.  Will hopefully get it all nice and setup early next week.

your reloading life will change forever...

I used a case gauge exactly once, thought I had a good setup, jam city in my AR to the point I had to mortar the gun.  To long of headspace.  But if you dropped em in the gauge they looked great.Then I bought a Hornady case comparator setup and had a REAL NUMBER to work with and adjust the die to.  No more "oh, does that look like its at the high or the low shelf" when there is like .002 difference between them.

Edited September 23, 2016 by rjacobs

[ams30gts]

1 hour ago, rjacobs said:

your reloading life will change forever...

I used a case gauge exactly once, thought I had a good setup, jam city in my AR to the point I had to mortar the gun.  To long of headspace.  But if you dropped em in the gauge they looked great.Then I bought a Hornady case comparator setup and had a REAL NUMBER to work with and adjust the die to.  No more "oh, does that look like its at the high or the low shelf" when there is like .002 difference between them.

 

 

Should I just start with a factory new round and get a reading from that?  I assume that would be the best way to go.

 

[rjacobs]

yea, thats what I typically do.  Something good like Federal GMM or a piece of XM193 or XM855 that uses Lake City brass.  I wouldnt use PMC or any of the cheap stuff personally, not that its not in spec, I just like to use something(like the Federal Gold Medal Match) that I KNOW holds a tight tolerance.

Measurements are all over the place depending on the brand.  I say all over the place, but my experience is the vary in the .00x range.  I think with the above I had brass measure all in the 1.06x range, some high, some low.

That picture above is 300blk.  I think I had 4 different brands of factory(Hornady, Barnes, Remington, and maybe one other).  I measured them all and used the average I think.  Was 3 years ago when I did it all to get my tool head setup.

 

NOW heres the other use for the gauge.  IF you only shoot your brass in 1 gun, you can use the gauge to gauge once fired FROM YOUR GUN and bump the shoulder accordingly.  002 for bolt guns and 004 for gas gun.  You dont have to return the brass to factory SAAMI specs every time.  Again that is only if your brass only goes in your 1 gun.  If you shoot in multiple guns or help others out with brass prep, obviously its best to run to SAAMI/Factory specs.

[ams30gts]

I measured 5 pieces of M855 that I had around and all 5 measured 1.456 ±.0005 with the Hornady Headspace Comparator.  I then turned down the trim die until I hit that mark which ended up being just over 1/3 of a turn past touching the shellplate.  

Is this amount tilt in the tool head ok?

Video Link

Edited September 28, 2016 by ams30gts

[Phlier]

You most likely won't get that amount of head tilt when there is a shell at the swage station.

You should make sure that the reading you get when your shell plate is fully populated with brass is the same as what you're getting now, with just the one station populated as you set your sizing die. I ended up having to back out my sizing die a full 1/4 turn to get the same shoulder bump with the shell plate populated as what I got with just the size/trim die station populated.

As a general rule, it is best to set *all* your dies with a shell at every station

[ams30gts]

2 hours ago, Phlier said:

You most likely won't get that amount of head tilt when there is a shell at the swage station.

You should make sure that the reading you get when your shell plate is fully populated with brass is the same as what you're getting now, with just the one station populated as you set your sizing die. I ended up having to back out my sizing die a full 1/4 turn to get the same shoulder bump with the shell plate populated as what I got with just the size/trim die station populated.

As a general rule, it is best to set *all* your dies with a shell at every station

I got that reading with shells in every station.  I should check again for head tilt though with brass in there.