matteekay Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Howdy! Sorry for making still-another endshake thread but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for when searching. I picked up this 10-7 a little ways back (used, it's older than me),modified it slightly, practiced with it a bunch, and ran it in USPSA for the first time last week: I had a handful of ignition failures with Federal American Eagle, which has never given me problems before. Amongst the usual suggestions to correct this (up the mainspring power, strain screw, etc), people suggested checking the endshake, headspace, and cylinder gap. These are the measurements I took: Cylinder Gap: 0.0" Headspace: 0.064" Endshake: 0.011" I've already ordered the Power Customs shims in both .002 and .004. Where do I want the cylinder to be? Also, does headspace decrease as endshake does? So, if I shim it by 0.006", will I get a cylinder gap of 0.006", headspace of 0.058", and endshake of 0.005"? I've also ordered a Power Custom hammer nose that's supposedly slightly longer than stock. Will I get into trouble trying to use that with reduced headspace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okshootist Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Minimum headspace is limited by contact between the bearing surface in the center of the extractor and the recoil shield. It shouldn't factor into your calculations and unless it has been improperly modified, shouldn't be a problem. Endshake should be as close to zero as possible while maintaining a free-turning cylinder. I'd recommend you correct the endshake by having the crane stretched. Shims are okay as a temporary fix but are not a good long term solution, especially when you are looking at multiple shims. If your numbers are correct, correcting the endshake is going to result in a large, probably excessive, cylinder gap. .010" is generally considered maximum. That will require that the barrel be set back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Good deal, thanks for the reply. I can't help but wonder if having the cylinder cut for moons is what caused this all of a sudden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Having the cylinder cut for moons should not have changed any of that stuff. Okshootist has good advice. Ideally you want a max cylinder gap of .006 for lead and .004 for jacketed. If you shoot some of both, you need the .006. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Got it. Maybe just running the gun harder rattled a few things loose (I imagine USPSA and ICORE are rougher than PPC). .006 sounds perfect. I should be able to attain that and cut endshake down without running into headspace issues too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelie66 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Nice gun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) About once a year I take mine completely apart. I have an ammo can with DuPont Prepsol. Soak the parts over night then I can wipe down with shop towels, inspect, lubricate and reassemble. Shoot 5k to 10k rounds per year Hi-Teck coated bullets. (Billy's and Black and Blue) I find loose screws and worn parts. Strain screws is always interesting since I use the ribbed reduced power main spring. Sometimes that strain screw wears on the sides of the main spring and makes for a lighter trigger and lighter primer hits. Might be time for a visit to the tank for yours. PS I try not to do this major cleaning before a major match. I like to get hundreds of rounds at local matches before I consider the cleanup complete. Edited August 21, 2016 by GMM50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteekay Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Nice gun!Thank you! I like that it's got some history and is older than me, ha. There's something special about older Smith's. About once a year I take mine completely apart. I have an ammo can with DuPont Prepsol. Soak the parts over night then I can wipe down with shop towels, inspect, lubricate and reassemble. Shoot 5k to 10k rounds per year Hi-Teck coated bullets. (Billy's and Black and Blue) I find loose screws and worn parts. Strain screws is always interesting since I use the ribbed reduced power main spring. Sometimes that strain screw wears on the sides of the main spring and makes for a lighter trigger and lighter primer hits. Might be time for a visit to the tank for yours. PS I try not to do this major cleaning before a major match. I like to get hundreds of rounds at local matches before I consider the cleanup complete.That's a really good idea. This gun is my primary right now (Limited 6 shooter) but I'm hoping to add a 627 or 929 soon and then a deep cleaning might be just what the doctor ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelie66 Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 I will always have a fondness for PPC revolvers. I went to the first National Shooters League match with my father. It was the first time I had seen anything like those guns. Go to Hell I was there in this forum and follow the link for a write up on the match. A must read on the roots of action pistol history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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