2011 hammer catching on half cock

[72stick]

It's just my 2 cents, but if it were my 2011, I'd have the smith check the relief cut on the sear face. There's a little bit of a radius under the hammer hooks that prevents a squared off sear from seating on 100% of the sear and hammer hooks contact surfaces. A relief cut lets the sear seat deeper under the hammer hooks. Without the space the relief cut creates, the sear can't fully seat under the hooks when it resets especially under high speed and can allow the hammer to follow.

Edited July 12, 2016 by 72stick

[BallisticExpansion]

Recommend don't test it with dropping on an empty chamber. Will screw with the hammer/sear at some point.

Thats the only way to tell if it is still doing it :/ other than going out and shooting a bill drill.

[BallisticExpansion]

It's just my 2 cents, but if it were my 2011, I'd have the smith check the relief cut on the sear face. There's a little bit of a radius under the hammer hooks that prevents a squared off sear from seating on 100% of the sear and hammer hooks contact surfaces. A relief cut lets the sear seat deeper under the hammer hooks. Without the space the relief cut creates, the sear can't fully seat under the hooks when it resets especially under high speed and can allow the hammer to follow.

That would make a lot of sense, because even with high tension on the sear spring it is still doing it. What really sucks is it literally just got back from the smith. Methinks it will be going to a different smith this time. I will give him a call and see what he says about it. I hope he can use the parts that are in it. I can't afford to spend another $130+ on parts. Murphys law, it happens with 2 state matches on the way... ugh sometimes it makes me miss my glock. Thanks for all the help gentlemen. If anyone else has a solution or comment feel free to post. Thank you.

[Tino2212]

Take it to a Smith who knows what he is doing a good one can create a trigger with a < 2LBS pull without safety isues.

A smith that can not make a save < 2 LBS triggerpull with a complete litespeed 2 ignition kit sucks .

Mine did a save 1,5 LBS (700 grams)for me with my stock STI parts ( and i even can go lower ).

Edited July 12, 2016 by Tino2212

[72stick]

It's just my 2 cents, but if it were my 2011, I'd have the smith check the relief cut on the sear face. There's a little bit of a radius under the hammer hooks that prevents a squared off sear from seating on 100% of the sear and hammer hooks contact surfaces. A relief cut lets the sear seat deeper under the hammer hooks. Without the space the relief cut creates, the sear can't fully seat under the hooks when it resets especially under high speed and can allow the hammer to follow.

That would make a lot of sense, because even with high tension on the sear spring it is still doing it. What really sucks is it literally just got back from the smith. Methinks it will be going to a different smith this time. I will give him a call and see what he says about it. I hope he can use the parts that are in it. I can't afford to spend another $130+ on parts. Murphys law, it happens with 2 state matches on the way... ugh sometimes it makes me miss my glock. Thanks for all the help gentlemen. If anyone else has a solution or comment feel free to post. Thank you.

Smith should be able stick it in their jig to stone your sear and clean it up. They should also stone the sides of the sear and the hammer. Makes it break the shot smooth as a glass rod breaking. Edited July 12, 2016 by 72stick

[pskys2]

Recommend don't test it with dropping on an empty chamber. Will screw with the hammer/sear at some point.

Thats the only way to tell if it is still doing it :/ other than going out and shooting a bill drill.

Make a dummy round, no primer or powder. Then load it into a mag and try it from slide lock and by racking the slide.

Think about it the only time the slide drops on an empty chamber we at least have the trigger held back, or have deliberately dropped the slide.