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BallisticExpansion

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Everything posted by BallisticExpansion

  1. Yeah the main reason I want 20" is like you said weight savings and easier to wield. There is another guy with a rem 700 varmint that has a 26" bull barrel. I though about getting it and having it cut/ threaded. But that just increases the total cost. I've heard the ideal barrel length for .308 is 21.5" but I guess that's more applicable with factory ammo?? I suppose the longest I would go is 22"
  2. I've been shopping for my first bolt action rifle and was curious if anyone has had any experience/ opinions with the new savage 110 tactical. I'll put the link below to it... I'm having a hard time picking between it and a used remington 700. Of course of anyone has any other recommendations I'm happy to hear them. Here are my requirements for the gun. .308 caliber, 20" barrel, threaded muzzle or thick enough to have threaded, .5 moa or better with handloads, and under 10lb with an optic. The savage meets all of those I think, I'm just wondering if I buy a used 700 am I getting more gun for the same cost? My main purpose for the rifle will be in the woods. However, I would like the accuracy to be acceptable for matches and also when I hunt out west I want to be confident with the guns accuracy out to 1000yd. The rem 700 I'm currently discussing with a guy locally is in a magpul stock and has the kit installed to take AI mags. He says it consistently printed .35" at 100 yd and he used it in matches shooting 2-300rd and now is wanting to switch caliber. He is asking $750 for it or I can get a new savage out the door for $650. Anyway, your insight for a newbie is appreciated in advance. Savage rifle: https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/model-110110/-tactical
  3. There is a new steel challenge match available to shoot just outside of Anderson, SC @ Belton Gun Club. This is great news as the only steel challenge matches I know of in the NE GA and surrounding areas are Spartanburg, Cherokee Gun Club, and South River Gun Club if you want to deal with ATL traffic ( I don't). The match is on the 4th Sunday. Right now it is 4 stages, but they have plans to increase to 6 stages. I believe their first match was October or November. MD is Ryan Flowers. It is a sanctioned SCSA match. I'm shooting it for the first time on Dec 23rd if we don't get iced or rained out. This is my first match in almost a year, hopefully the rust will shake off a little lol. If anyone is in the area come shoot! Below is the registration link: https://practiscore.com/belton-gun-club-steel-challenge-12-23-2018/register
  4. One of the local long time USPSA'er GM open guys here does it. And he has been a GM and competitive for a long time so it seems there is something to it. I've always been curious about it. I should ask him the next time I see him. What kind of music do you listen to? You know there is some new tech out exploring neuroscience. JJ Racaza, Shane Coley, and Max Michel are all using the product. It's used in headphone form. Here is that link. https://www.haloneuro.com/science It is an interesting topic for sure.
  5. Yeah my Edge was pretty sharp from the factory. I used a JEM GS from EGW and infinity thumb safeties when I blended it. Very smooth now. I wish the JEM GS's would fit 1911 frames.
  6. thanks for the info! I decided to order a dawson sight with .090 width.
  7. Does the manny dot from brazos fit a springfield 1911 front sight cut? Of course it will need a little fitting if it does. However, I don't want it to be completely the wrong angle. I currently run a manny dot on my edge and love it. My dawson front sight currently is bent from a previous owner installing it improperly. I plan to use this gun for some USPSA, but mostly steel challenge. On a side note what is yalls opinion of a front sight that narrow for steel?? The manny dot is .070. Alternatively I could just order another dawson one that is .090. The current one is .100 and it is way too fat for my tastes. Thanks.
  8. Alright cool. Is there any way to check if its still applied on my own? I might just be looking at items that dont qualify for the discount. I was thinking of the tactical GPS bag, not the handgunner. The tac and the shooters conn are the same price. I like how the GPS has exterior straps/molle to attach other items. And its prime shipping from amazon. Why should I get the shooters conn bag over the GPS tac?
  9. Wish they still made that one. The nylon/cloth is solid from what I have seen and felt in person. I want to go with the shooters conn bag, but I am not paying $30 to ship it. That's just a principle thing for me. I have given a hard look at the GPS Handgunner, a friend has one and likes it, but doesnt use it hard. If I carried more junk I would get the small DAA.
  10. Does Shooters Connection still offer discounts for forum members? Does it expire? It doesn't seem to be applied to my account anymore.
  11. I think many shooters are doing their own trigger installation nowadays. I personally know a handful of shooters who have bought the kit from Brazos and loved it. If your frame is good the parts really don't require any fitting. That's what my friend has in his open gun that I shot last weekend, and it felt nice. EGW also sells a similar kit. Doing that or buying your own sear jig seems the way many go.
  12. Exactly what I was thinking when my smith told me I was creating the issue. Yeah it was painful to spend all that time and money too. Especially for someone in my position (full time student, part time employee). Just about anyone can fit a single part to a 1911. But how it works with the other parts is the key and probably the most difficult part of the job. Also I wanted to add something I forgot. The 2nd smith even had a "well known" smith he is friends with come in and he couldn't figure out my problem either. I don't know how much time he spent looking at it, but technically 3 smiths at least looked at it. Wow.
  13. Yeah the first guy is certified from the PA gunsmith school and worked with apprenticed under a retired AMU smith. I actually had a friend take the gun to him because of their connection. He fit my safeties and trigger group for $100 and had the gun back in just over 2wks. I felt it was all solid work. If I wanted a quick trigger job local I would probably go back to him. I didn't personally meet him so I can't comment on his bedside manner. His business is Moss Firearms, first name Brannen. The 2nd smith was another guy in the North GA area. He as a policy though where if you ask for an update he just ignores you. If you keep asking he will try and charge you $125 extra. The policy is clearly stated in his info. That wouldn't have been a problem except when he had the gun 3x longer than what was agreed upon and threatened the $125 after I had sent him a total of 3 emails in 3 months. In person he was not difficult to deal with at all. I actually shot a match with him before and enjoyed shooting with him. I did have him pin my grip safety and that work was fine. However, I don't think I will be returning to him because of his communication policies. I believe many smiths have a problem of too many clients and not enough resources to handle it. I am fine with an extended wait time, but to promise one thing and then refuse communication is bad business in my opinion. I will not post his info publicly. If you are that curious send me a PM about it. Yeah I have always ran an ISMI 17lb Mainspring. No problems thus far. I will keep that in mind though about trying a 19lb spring. Thanks for the help!
  14. Tell me about it lol. Didn't know that about Dawson, will keep that in mind. Thank you. Yep. Got to be careful especially on the sides of the grip where the polymer is thin. For real. The first guy wasn't looking for it in his defense, but still. The 2nd guy was given the pistol with the express reason to fix the issue. Then proceeded to take 3months instead of the discussed 3-4wks... I won't be going back to a smith anytime soon. I would rather buy the tools and learn myself on these kind of issues anyway. Looks like I will have to wait until early next week. Sear won't be here until Monday. I have waited this long. I suppose I can wait a little bit more haha.
  15. I believe I have found the cause of my problem! I started looking closer at the grip and found this.... (picture below). A small gap between the grip and frame at the back where they mate up (on both sides). It didn't seem like a big deal. Until I pulled down on the dust cover and the gap increased in size. Woops. I thought maybe the grip itself was bad, but it is not that old and I couldn't find any defects or cracks in it. Well I happened to have a CK arms grip bushing spare kit and decided to give it a try. I began installing that and could immediately tell they were a tighter fit and locked down much more snug. Sure enough the gap disappeared! Here is my reasoning of what was happening. Under heavy recoil , which occurs in rapid fire due to rapid cycling of the slide or whenever my grip was loose the grip was flexing away from the frame giving the sear just enough room to "bounce" off the hammer hooks, but not enough to miss the halfcock. Therefore, hammer falls to half cock. I fired about 15rds through it the other evening at a target 3yds away. I was able to shoot several .12 and .13 splits and no follow. I ordered another extreme sear to replace the one the last smith chopped trying to fix the problem. When I get it in the gun I will put 100 or more rounds through it and see if that was 100% the problem. It's a sick twist after spending all that time and money on smiths only for it to be a $15 fix that I NOTICED. Sometimes it's the small things. Thank you for all who posted with advice and suggestions. I will confirm after this weekend if that was the problem.
  16. STI adjustable rear with a lightning rod Manny Dot from Brazos. Love the manny dot. .070 width. Took about 1-2 weeks of practice and a match to get used to it, but now I never want to go back to anything else. Might be hard for some people to see, but I have young eyes. Link to sight below. http://www.1911store.com/lightningrodmicrodotstisv-2.aspx
  17. How was he able to show you? I am planning on checking mine. I need to find out the correct distance between the sear and hammer pin holes. I will mic distance from outside of one pin to the other and subtract the radius of each pin to give a center to center distance on both sides of the gun. This should tell me if they are square and drilled in the right place. Anyone have any idea what the correct distance is on a 2011 frame from sear to hammer pin hole? Some good news today. I know for a fact it is something with the gun and not the way I shoot. This makes more sense and what I had thought to begin with. I shot a practice session with a friend of mine who is a M and my gun had the same problem for him. I had the chance to shoot his open gun and could not replicate the issue my gun is having. I will add that adjusting the trigger pre travel and over travel have made it less likely to occur, but it still occurs nonetheless. Now I believe it must be something in the grip or frame. I am going to try and find a fellow shooter who can loan me a different grip to see if that changes anything. In the meantime I will check the sear/hammer pin holes as mentioned and spend a little more time polishing the disco hole in the frame. Raceinready300ex- how exactly did you sand out your disco pin hole? I was thinking a cotton qtip in a drill and valve grinding compound.
  18. Both smiths that worked on the gun are competent full time gunsmiths. Also I personally know shooters who have used both of them and handled other guns they have worked on. It did cross my mind that the pin holes could be off. I will contact STI about sending it in for warranty. After that I may sell it if I am not able to shoot it.
  19. Wow that is some grip strength. You could always go with a steel grip 2011. I am by no means a built guy lol look at my profile pic. I don't think that is my problem, but I could see that happening with a polymer grip, especially if it was reduced.
  20. Back when I was trying to solve it myself I checked the channel and didn't see any obvious burrs. Just because I didn't see them doesn't mean they aren't there. I will try your qtip idea and a little valve polishing compound? Thats a great article. The most tinkering I did myself trying to fix it was modifying the disco. I even shortened the vertical length of the disco pad as well as the thickness of it. I was thinking that I was pinning the disco under the sear before the slide closed and it was jostling the sear loose when the slide came completely out of battery thus causing hammer follow. As I mentioned I can pick up my friends stock 1911 and make his hammer do the same exact thing in dry fire anyway. So it may be just getting the parts setup for the way I shoot. Either way I am tired of dealing with the thing. Its getting sold if I don't get it shootable for me. Thanks for the help, I will report back. Might even tinker with it tonight some.
  21. Yep Bob has some great articles. I have read through that and many of his other articles several times and learned a lot. After the first trigger job when I realized I still had the same problem I checked a lot of things referencing his articles. That has been the most frustrating part. The gun passed all checks. Thats part of the reason I sent it back to a smith. Because I knew had to be something in the sear angles. Someone did recommend I try one of john harrisons true radius sears.
  22. That was something I tried before, but not with reduced pretravel. Very little pre travel and generous over travel may be a solution. Others have also said it could be a fault in the grip of the gun. That is literally the only part that I have not eliminated as a variable. I am trying to get with a friend of mine and put his grip on my gun to see if it changes anything. I have checked the grip for cracks or flex when assembled on the gun, but can't find evidence of either. Until I fix it, get another gun, or sell it I guess I will be shooting my glock 34 in production.... yaaaaa.... not. Thanks for all the insight guys. I will put the factory sear back in this weekend and see what this does with the "right" pre travel/over travel adjustments. I will report back.
  23. Haha I guess. But who knows if that will even work. And is it worth the cost? I am already $500 into this gun for trigger parts and smiths. Now it seems I would be better selling the gun and having someone build me one who is top notch. Brazos, Atlas gun works, etc. Although I will say I really do like this gun. It was a factory edge when I got it and I have got the sights and the grip work fit perfectly to my hand. If it was still in mostly factory configuration I would be much more likely to sell it.
  24. The diagrams are not mine. Some I pulled off the web. It does give a good idea of what my sear looks like. The positive one. One long flat angle. Which is obviously what is causing the horrible trigger break. The guy who did the trigger job on my first gun has done all the triggers on my friends gun and he has put a high round count through his guns like you. That trigger job had all extreme parts and a 17# mainspring. So you are saying the factory trigger job, the first smiths trigger job and the last smith I tried were all wrong? The last smith fit all SVI ignition parts and the problem was still the same. This is when he told me that it wasn't the gun, but me and how I shoot. So that is when he cut my current sear and took out the pretravel to "fix" it. I really hope he was wrong, because I don't want to change how I shoot. I would rather shoot a different gun. I made a post about all this on the 1911 forum right after the first trigger job and I realized nothing had changed. Here is that post. https://www.1911forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625993
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