RO grip Safety

[JWard79]

Picked up a 9mm RO for my son and was wondering what grip safety to purchase. Have already tried a .220 EGW, but the the geometry was not a good fit. Initial fit (without modification) produced a sizable gap between the frame and beavertail. Not sure if a wilson combat has the appropriate geometry, and hoped someone could provide their insight to an aftermarket grip safety. This is purely a preference modification (not satisfied with how the stock safety feels), but would like to fit a safety if there is one on the market that will fit the application.

[ricardo28]

I had a Wilson that fit better than the factory one but later elected to have the tangs welded and refit at SACS. Money well spent.

[JWard79]

Thanks for the recommendation. My son will be turning 8 years old in June, so I have some time to get this right. Will likely put a short trigger in the gun once he can manage the recoil. Will take him to the range this weekend to see how the build suites him (doesn't know it's his gun yet).

On a side note, I started my daughter out with an M&P core 9mm with a leupold optic in open minor and plan on starting my boy on the opposite end of the spectrum. I started in limited minor then transitioned to production, single stack, and then open. Not sure which is the preferred approach, but my son is averse to recoil impulse above 22lr so I figured a 9mm 1911 would fit the bill. He wants a dot like his sister & father, but I want him to work on fundamentals and recoil management before dropping cash on an open rig.

[watlow]

You sir are a great father. I have heard it can be better to start with open and work your way down since you have can have a dot to look at and focus on other fundamentals.....from a new production shooter

[JWard79]

Have introduced all of my children beginning at 3 years old with airsoft shooting small stages in the backyard, before advancing to livefire and then competition. So far the only child that has progressed to "real" firearms and competition is my daughter (gave her the M&P for her 9th birthday). Four kids in total with one needing airsoft work, my boy transitioning from 22lr to 9mm, and my oldest getting classified (youngest can't even hold a bottle yet). Trying to give them the exposure I wish I had, and didn't experience until it became necessary for my job.

Sorry to ramble on about my kids, but this current build is for my son and at some point my collection will be passed on to my children. My hope is that they fight over what is in the gun safe apposed to what's left in the bank account.

[scottlep]

I would think it would be a .250 radius. Call EGW and ask. They are an awesome group there and extremely helpful.

Also, almost any beavertail you buy is going to be oversized and will needed to be fit and blended.

[ricardo28]

Scottlep, all bad info. Springfield does not use a .250, they have a version of the .220 and no, all beaver tails are not oversized in the area of the curve. Almost always you need to fit the frame tangs to the beaver tail. It is easier to weld up and remove metal from the convex curve than a concave of the btgs.

[scottlep]

Scottlep, all bad info. Springfield does not use a .250, they have a version of the .220 and no, all beaver tails are not oversized in the area of the curve. Almost always you need to fit the frame tangs to the beaver tail. It is easier to weld up and remove metal from the convex curve than a concave of the btgs.

Wow, thanks for slamming me ricardo28. I said "I would think it would be a .250" then recommended that the OP call EGW to confirm.

Also, I didn't say ALL beavertails are oversized. I have only ever used EGW beavertails, which all need to be fit to the curves of the tangs by removing material from the tangs AND be blended to the shape of the frame since they are oversized for doing exactly that. But I will digress to you supreme knowledge and need to slam people just for trying to be helpful. Have a nice day.

[busdriver02]

Springfield uses a .220 radius safety, and they frequently over grind the frame tangs. Assuming the gap you're referring to is the same one everyone seems to be thinking of, then you're looking at welding up the frame.

If you're referring to a "gap" that makes the outside lines of beavertail not blend with the lines of the frame, that's a matter of grinding/filing/sanding to blend the two together.

The picture you attached is of the stock setup, yes?

[JWard79]

Discovered the frame required a.220 grip safety after some research on multiple forums and manufacturer websites. This of course was after purchasing an Ed Brown safety for the RO, but plan on using that for another 1911 after I discovered the fit issue. I do believe the tang received some extra love at the factory which results in the gap at the top of the .220 EGW safety. Initially thought of the having someone weld up the frame, but hoped there was an easier solution.

[busdriver02]

I have a TRP, same story.

[ricardo28]

Scottlep, all bad info. Springfield does not use a .250, they have a version of the .220 and no, all beaver tails are not oversized in the area of the curve. Almost always you need to fit the frame tangs to the beaver tail. It is easier to weld up and remove metal from the convex curve than a concave of the btgs.

Wow, thanks for slamming me ricardo28. I said "I would think it would be a .250" then recommended that the OP call EGW to confirm.

Also, I didn't say ALL beavertails are oversized. I have only ever used EGW beavertails, which all need to be fit to the curves of the tangs by removing material from the tangs AND be blended to the shape of the frame since they are oversized for doing exactly that. But I will digress to you supreme knowledge and need to slam people just for trying to be helpful. Have a nice day.

Not a slam, just a direct correction. I don't sugar coat like today's society wants to make people feel better. Also, I'm not a gunsmith but I don't post bad info about things I don't know about. Didn't say you said always, you said almost any. Edited May 27, 2016 by ricardo28

[scottlep]

Scottlep, all bad info. Springfield does not use a .250, they have a version of the .220 and no, all beaver tails are not oversized in the area of the curve. Almost always you need to fit the frame tangs to the beaver tail. It is easier to weld up and remove metal from the convex curve than a concave of the btgs.

Wow, thanks for slamming me ricardo28. I said "I would think it would be a .250" then recommended that the OP call EGW to confirm.

Also, I didn't say ALL beavertails are oversized. I have only ever used EGW beavertails, which all need to be fit to the curves of the tangs by removing material from the tangs AND be blended to the shape of the frame since they are oversized for doing exactly that. But I will digress to you supreme knowledge and need to slam people just for trying to be helpful. Have a nice day.

Not a slam, just a direct correction. I don't sugar coat like today's society wants to make people feel better. Also, I'm not a gunsmith but I don't post bad info about things I don't know about. Didn't say you said always, you said almost any.

Fair enough. The only reason I commented at all was because alot of people that are new to the 1911/2011 platform don't understand that there really isn't such a thing as a "drop in" part for 1911s since every manufacturer of the guns, frames, slides, parts, etc uses different specs and most parts will require some type of fitting.

[JWard79]

At this point there doesn't appear to be a viable solution outside of welding the tang, but for the sake of future searches on the same topic I'll add better context the the thread.

As mentioned above fitting is required, the .220 is the appropriate size for a Springfield RO, and EGW has information concerning which grip safety is appropriate for your frame type. My previous experience with 1911 home gunsmithing was based on an STI frame, which uses a .250 radius, and was not aware of manufacturer specific frame designs and the appropriate radius.