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1911 safety fitting question


JatCarver

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If I were to fit a SV ambi safety to a STI would the safety still be ok when I upgrade the internals(sear, disconnector and hammer) to SV parts in the future?

I guess what I asking is if a safety is fitted for a seat and hammer in your gun and you change the sear and hammer is it possible that the safety would need to be replaced also?

Thanks

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Sears and hammers are not all the same. Change anything, and more than likely you will have to refit or replace the safety.

Sometimes a few file strokes in the right place will fit the old safety to new parts. Sometimes fitting to a new sear requires more meat than is there. This is when you need a new safety, or a skilled welder.

Edited by wide45
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Here is a good read on fitting the thumb safety. Last part of the article shows how to peen out a little metal if necessary. (Quite likely if you get too aggressive with the file or switch out internals.)

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0601.htm

An other option is the LSI safety that uses a tiny set screw instead of filing to fit the safety to the sear. Also much faster to fit and should you change out sears later on, its still adjustable. I noticed they still do not have their online store up and running, but you can call to discuss options.

http://lonestarinnovations.com/

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If you are going to upgrade to SV fire control anyway...do it all at one time when you replace the safety.You will likely have less work as the SV system is designed to work together as a system..if I recall correctly.

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If you are going to upgrade to SV fire control anyway...do it all at one time when you replace the safety.You will likely have less work as the SV system is designed to work together as a system..if I recall correctly.

Yes I guess this probably is the best idea...

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what PodwerFinger, (forum member) told me, was to take material from the sear foot and final fit to safety by removing from safety.

So, when you change sears, you repeat the process. In this way, enough material is left on the safety for a final fitting and you can change sears a few times and still keep the same safety.

If you do chose this method, removing material from the sear foot , is very difficult, unless you have a belt sander. It doesn't take much to remove and then final fit to safety.

Removing by hand is unrealistic. Good sears are really made from hard material!!

good luck

BTW, what I should mention is, when I did my first safety, what you do not read on most of the posts about fitting a safety, is FIRST, fit the safety to the frame!

Remove the internals, insert the safety and make sure it goes up and down, without any interference. If it gets stuck, remove and mark with blue sharpie and repeat and remove material where you have too. Until it freely goes up and down.

If you do not fit to frame first, you may think its hitting something on the inside and remove too much, ruining the parts inside, when all along it was on the frame.

Edited by kimberacp
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what PodwerFinger, (forum member) told me, was to take material from the sear foot and final fit to safety by removing from safety.

So, when you change sears, you repeat the process. In this way, enough material is left on the safety for a final fitting and you can change sears a few times and still keep the same safety.

If you do chose this method, removing material from the sear foot , is very difficult, unless you have a belt sander. It doesn't take much to remove and then final fit to safety.

Removing by hand is unrealistic. Good sears are really made from hard material!!

good luck

BTW, what I should mention is, when I did my first safety, what you do not read on most of the posts about fitting a safety, is FIRST, fit the safety to the frame!

Remove the internals, insert the safety and make sure it goes up and down, without any interference. If it gets stuck, remove and mark with blue sharpie and repeat and remove material where you have too. Until it freely goes up and down.

If you do not fit to frame first, you may think its hitting something on the inside and remove too much, ruining the parts inside, when all along it was on the frame.

Thanks! Great advice fitting to frame only first! Edited by JatCarver
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I am not a gunsmith, and definitely don't have a bunch of patience. Having said that I was able to fit an Ed Brown ambi safety. It took a little time and as a couple mentioned before, always fit to the frame without internals first, and take your time. Mine functions perfectly. My 2 cents.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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one other issue you may encounter is...after the safety is fitted, it may pull outwards when you engage the safety into the ON position. the plunger tube rod that keeps the safety in position is pushing the safety outward.

metal needs to be removed from the lower inside part of the safety lever. just look at it as it is being moved and you'll get an idea of what to remove.

maybe it doesn't move out and you good to go!

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