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CCI High Primers


gerritm

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I just went through this problem , but all my primers were seating high ......we explored all kinds of possibilities .....after help from a fellow poster I found my primer seating assembly had come loose.........it drove me crazy......removed , cleaned and tightened up ......off and running.....

THIS! In addition regardless of how new your press is... get a small inexpensive grease gun and lube your lever arm fittings. Ensuring they are sufficently lubed will increase leverage and sensitivty when operating the lever.
And if you get marine grease it's even blue!
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9mm can be one of the harder cases to reload to to the variance in brass. Spend a little time inspecting range brass. I'll use three plastic

trays, the ones with the square sides work better. Put two in a box then pour a hand full of brass over the trays. Most will fall base down

look in the cases for chigger bits, little cup marks on the case mouth, splits or crap in the case. Place the third tray over the ones just

inspected and flip as you would a primer flip tray. Then you can look at the bases. discard any that are swagged ot any other reason to trah

the case. Process goes pretty quick once you get the hang of it. You can also turn the inspection tray to the side and easily spot 380's or

Super cases that found their way into the tumbler. Place them in a bucket once you have enough lube and load. Usually do inspections on a bad

day then put them in a five gallon bucket so when I'm ready have plenty already inspected. Inspection takes very little time and more than makes

up on time spent when loading.

Always lube cases, makes the whole process easier on the brass, press, dies and the operator.

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I can't find the post, but Brian has advised that on a Dillon you need a two step stroke. When you feel the primer on the upstroke of the handle, you hesitate then push hard.

Loaded about 500 more last night using this type of technique and keeping myself more square to the handle using even pressure then pushing hard at the end. Checked all of them and had only 1 that was marginal, but probably OK. Also snugged the shell plate with an allen wrench till it wouldn't turn and then backed it of till it moved freely. All of this has helped, thanks.

gerritm

And you locked it down with the set screw right?

Just got thru reloading another 500 or so for matches. All were good. Did not see a set screw on the nut that holds the shell plate down. . am I missing something?

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I can't find the post, but Brian has advised that on a Dillon you need a two step stroke. When you feel the primer on the upstroke of the handle, you hesitate then push hard.

Loaded about 500 more last night using this type of technique and keeping myself more square to the handle using even pressure then pushing hard at the end. Checked all of them and had only 1 that was marginal, but probably OK. Also snugged the shell plate with an allen wrench till it wouldn't turn and then backed it of till it moved freely. All of this has helped, thanks.

gerritm

And you locked it down with the set screw right?

Just got thru reloading another 500 or so for matches. All were good. Did not see a set screw on the nut that holds the shell plate down. . am I missing something?

There is a set screw on the left side of the ram that holds the large screw that holds the shell plate down.

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Hope you didn't sell your lee [emoji2]

Loaded a lot of .40 & 9mm bullets on the Lee Loadmaster and still use a Lee 4-hole turret for my .223 rifle loads. I also have a couple of Lee single stages that I use to process rifle brass. That said, buying a Dillon was the best decision I made. I got tired of tinkering with my Lee every time I sat down to use it. Always something jamming or out of wack. When the Lee works it works well when it doesn't, well it was frustrating. I can load a least double the amount of rounds in the same time with the Dillon.

gerritm.

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