Self-smithing SP01 Shadow Trigger Questions

[dejadoo]

I’m new CZ and picked up a SP01 Shadow today from my FFL; it is unfired and came with the following parts (still new in their respective bags) from the individual selling it:

Parts from Cajun Gun Works:

Recoil springs #11-RS, 13-RS

Firing pin kit- UL-DA/NFPB

Disconnector Type1 - 1485/T1

Trigger return spring- RP-TRS

Trigger pin- TR-PIN

Competition CZ Custom hammer- item #10035

I’ve read through many, many posts here in the CZ forum over the last week and feel like I have a pretty good grasp of what needs to be done to improve the trigger – not that it’s all that bad other than the DA weight. I bookmarked several of them to be able to refer back too knowing that I’ve probably forgotten near half of it by now.

A couple of things I will be ordering right away are the thin safeties and I am considering getting the 75 Slide Stop since it is a little shorter – thinking that once the HUGE safeties are out of the way my grip and/or strong hand thumb may interfere with the extended stop. Also, I’m considering getting a new strut and pins to install the new hammer so I do not have to mess with disassembling the stock unit. Oh, and definitely a thinner front site – most likely from Dawson.

What else I may need depends on the answers to the following questions. I believe I’ve got the spare parts covered, as far as a list goes, and am focusing primarily on the trigger.

• The previous owner purchased the “thin” hammer. Aesthetics aside, will it function ok or should I go ahead and spring for the “wide” Shadow version? The base of the “thin” version, where the pin passes through, appears to be the same width as the stock hammer and then has a couple of shoulders where it tapers down to a thinner profile up through the spur. Does being “thinner” equate to being “lighter” and maybe more dependable/reliable for harder primers with the lower weight hammer springs?
• Is the disconnector the “short reset system” for the non-FP block Shadows? That’s what I’ve concluded in my reading and am just looking for verification.
• Do I need to go ahead and pick up CGW’s AS-B adjustable billet sear to go along with the new hammer and disconnector? Or just work with the stock part? Or is there something other needed/recommended?
• The Rami Firing Pin Spring – is it the same as what comes with CGW’s Firing Pin Kit? Is it needed/better if it’s not?
• Should I go ahead a pick up a #13 hammer spring to try (the Firing Pin Kit comes with both the #8.5 and #12)?

Non-trigger question:

Is the stainless mag brake offered by CZC a needed upgrade over the stock brake so it “cannot be accidently squished up into the frame”? Has anyone actually experienced this?

[himurax13]

What else I may need depends on the answers to the following questions. I believe I’ve got the spare parts covered, as far as a list goes, and am focusing primarily on the trigger.

• The previous owner purchased the “thin” hammer. Aesthetics aside, will it function ok or should I go ahead and spring for the “wide” Shadow version? The base of the “thin” version, where the pin passes through, appears to be the same width as the stock hammer and then has a couple of shoulders where it tapers down to a thinner profile up through the spur. Does being “thinner” equate to being “lighter” and maybe more dependable/reliable for harder primers with the lower weight hammer springs?
• Is the disconnector the “short reset system” for the non-FP block Shadows? That’s what I’ve concluded in my reading and am just looking for verification.
• Do I need to go ahead and pick up CGW’s AS-B adjustable billet sear to go along with the new hammer and disconnector? Or just work with the stock part? Or is there something other needed/recommended?
• The Rami Firing Pin Spring – is it the same as what comes with CGW’s Firing Pin Kit? Is it needed/better if it’s not?
• Should I go ahead a pick up a #13 hammer spring to try (the Firing Pin Kit comes with both the #8.5 and #12)?

Non-trigger question:

Is the stainless mag brake offered by CZC a needed upgrade over the stock brake so it “cannot be accidently squished up into the frame”? Has anyone actually experienced this?

1. I am going to install the low wide Shadow hammers on my SP01 Shadows tonight. I am only going with them mostly for aesthetics. What you have will serve you fine. I didn't have any light primer strike issues with the extended firing pin and a 11.5 hammer spring.

2. If you mean Reach reduction, that is basically a modified trigger with a setscrew to reduce pre travel.

The short reset system from CZC is basically a disconnector that has to be fitted. Fitting a Type 3 disconnector would achieve the same thing.

All Shadow slides come from the factory without a firing pin block.

3. You do not need to order the billet sear or a new hammer. The billet sear comes pre polished, it has a setscrew to ensure proper operation of your safety, and will last much longer than the factory part. It is a nice piece, but it is not necessary but it is easier to deal with than fitting the sear to the safety.

4. The Rami firing pin spring is basically the same thing as the reduced power firing pin spring. It should have been included with the extended firing pin.

5. I would go ahead and use the 11.5 pound hammer spring. I wouldn't order the 13lb spring unless you have light primer strikes.

Edited March 28, 2015 by himurax13

[thompsoncustom]

The previous owner purchased the “thin” hammer. Aesthetics aside, will it function ok or should I go ahead and spring for the “wide” Shadow version? The base of the “thin” version, where the pin passes through, appears to be the same width as the stock hammer and then has a couple of shoulders where it tapers down to a thinner profile up through the spur. Does being “thinner” equate to being “lighter” and maybe more dependable/reliable for harder primers with the lower weight hammer springs?

Yes is theory the narrow/lighter hammer would be a better option for the lightest of hammer springs. All CZ frames are set up for wide hammer it's the slide that is either wide or narrow but a narrow hammer will work in any gun just as good as a wide one.

Is the disconnector the “short reset system” for the non-FP block Shadows? That’s what I’ve concluded in my reading and am just looking for verification.

Yes the T1 Disco from Cajun gun works in for shadows/non-FPB guns. 90% of the time the T1 is a drop it part and requires no fitting. Tho the T3 will reduce the slack in the trigger in SA a little more the T1 will still be a huge improvement over the stock disco.

• Do I need to go ahead and pick up CGW’s AS-B adjustable billet sear to go along with the new hammer and disconnector? Or just work with the stock part? Or is there something other needed/recommended?

Do you need it.....No but you should buy it just for the quality of the part alone and the ease of installation over fitting the safety or sear leg.

• The Rami Firing Pin Spring – is it the same as what comes with CGW’s Firing Pin Kit? Is it needed/better if it’s not?
• Should I go ahead a pick up a #13 hammer spring to try (the Firing Pin Kit comes with both the #8.5 and #12)?

It's not exactly the same thing as the Rami spring but may be close enough I have both but haven't done a comparison test. The 11.5lb main spring has always been 100% reliable for me.

As far as the hammer strut goes you can just buy a new one or you could get free floating pins for the strut and the disco from CGW than after you remove the stock pins these will just push in and out.

I found the thin safety and rami slide stop to be a nice upgrade really thins down the gun. I would also check out CGW for sights his fixed sights are wonderful and the front post is a Fiber Optic from dawson/