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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Glock stiker not resetting


mark97se

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I'm not sure if DK trims the tab. He is on this forum a lot or you can just call him. I do know that he sets his triggers in a frame and all safeties work when it leaves his shop. I have about a 1/16 " clearance between the tab and frame. I have a small amount of takeup and reset is perfect. The firing pin safety rests on a flat spot on the trigger bar but the safety is intact. The drop safety is pretty much at the end of the shelf but it still is safe. I think his new kit adds more but I'm not sure, I think it was mentioned in a post somewhere on this forum. Johnny glock has a way of testing the drop safety. I think you put in your armores plate and smack the grip on surface like a hammer and if your trigger sear falls off the striker then you are not on the shelf. Your right there are probably a lot of unsafe glocks out there. Either due the drop safety not working, or the firing pin block not working. I know I had one. I pretty much gave up on all the after market triggers until I tried DK's.

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This is a complicated issue...because mine is ON the shelf (I think that all of them are)...but only when the striker is pulling the trigger bar forward (giving you a gap between trigger safety and frame).

My issue arises when the slide is out of battery, so as soon as the striker isn't pushing on the trigger bar(slide is OOB), the trigger return spring takes over and pulls the trigger back until the trigger safety is resting on the frame...at this point pretty much ANY glock with a cut down trigger safety will have the bar OFF the drop safety shelf. This is where I am getting slop and it sometimes allows the striker to slide over the trigger bar instead of catching.

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You are going to have to put everything back stock, and take it from there. If it does it in the stock configuration then I think it would have to go back to glock. You are supposed to have at least 2/3 striker engagement on the sear, you can check this with your armorers blank slide cover. Was there ever a change in the striker lug face or bending of the cruciform tab? Some people will bend or change those engagements in order to try and get a better pull.

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Put everything back to 100% OEM. Check for the malfunction, then change one part out at a time check each time, and it may be a combination two or more items in your particular gun. Somewhere in that matrix the problem will reveal itself. Personally I only use the OEM 3.5lb connector and leave everything else stock. The trigger polishes itself up very nicely after 100,000 rounds.

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