leemoe83 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Anybody had to drill out a trigger pin before. I broke a TRS a week ago, stock pin slid out okay, replaced it with a new pin while replacing the broken spring. Trying to get the new pin out today and it is not coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 A bench block and a bigger hammer should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 A bench block and a bigger hammer should do the trick. I have the bench block and the starter punch, it's tight enough that the starter punch is indenting the pin, just keep wailing away or what? Don't want to destroy the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Is the floating CGW pin legal for USPSA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robb315 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Is the floating CGW pin legal for USPSA? Yes Appendix D4 21.6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carnifex Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I believe it only goes in one direction. Are you hitting it the right way? I had to beat the crap out of mine on all my CZs. Definitely switch to the CGW pin once you get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 I am hitting the non-flared end. Yes I am hitting the right way. Guess I will take safeties and grips off and get it flat on the block and beat the shit out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I am hitting the non-flared end. Yes I am hitting the right way. Guess I will take safeties and grips off and get it flat on the block and beat the shit out of it. Both ends are flared at the factory and I drill one enough so that the flare collapses as I drift it but don't drill it enough to damage the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I am hitting the non-flared end. Yes I am hitting the right way. Guess I will take safeties and grips off and get it flat on the block and beat the shit out of it. That's concerning. I've taken out two factory trigger pins and used the bench block both times. A sharp few whacks with a light ball-peen hammer was enough to break through the staking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 It's not the factory trigger pin. I broke a TRS a few weeks ago on a CZ Custom SP01 Shadow. I had a replacement TRS and pin on hand and replaced both. The pin I installed had only 1 flared end, I did not stake anything. It is quite obvious which side is the non flared side and I have struck the pin fairly stoutly and the end of the pin (non flared end) is beginning to deform. I am considering drill out the flare on the other side and trying to punch it through the other way. I am waiting for CGW floating pin to come in before I give it another go. Is the pin fairly soft? Will I need a carbide bit? I could if necessary remove the flare on a mill if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 It's not the factory trigger pin. I broke a TRS a few weeks ago on a CZ Custom SP01 Shadow. I had a replacement TRS and pin on hand and replaced both. The pin I installed had only 1 flared end, I did not stake anything. It is quite obvious which side is the non flared side and I have struck the pin fairly stoutly and the end of the pin (non flared end) is beginning to deform. I am considering drill out the flare on the other side and trying to punch it through the other way. I am waiting for CGW floating pin to come in before I give it another go. Is the pin fairly soft? Will I need a carbide bit? I could if necessary remove the flare on a mill if necessary.The pin I'm looking at right now has a small detent in it on one end and a flare on the other. My punches have a tit on them that match the detent and keep it centered. I'm thinking that the punch you are using has swelled the head of the pin. If you have a hardened slave pin and an arbor press it would be a better setup. The pins seem fairly soft. A cobalt drill works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 I got the pin out. Took the safeties and grips off. With the frame flat in the block it broke loose with a few stiff strikes. I must have been hitting at a bit of an angle with the safety and grip on the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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