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SP-01 custom shadow mods?


MP9

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Hi guys..

I have a SP-01 standard with some trigger work and parts from cgw... DA #4.8 -5, SA #2.6 comp hammer,, springs, ext FP, SRS with type 2 disco.. I really like it.. the only thing I dont like is the long reset..(after the shot, if I release the finger slowly, is long, like 4.5+mm until you hear/feel the clic) I compared it to a shadow and it was like half mine and really like..

if I get a sp-01 shadow custom 2014.... is there need to modify it to get the same trigger as the standard sp-01? I know I can swap the hammer spring for #11.5. what should be the trigger pull with it? #3 SA ? . if I have to expend more money on it I will think it twice.

thanks

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A light SA pull is all about the hammer hooks and polishing. If you buy a factory new Shadow you will still need to do an action job to get it as good as your SP01. Your SP01 reset can be made better with a hand fit Type 1 as well as modifications to the trigger bar/firing pin block lifter arm: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&p=2122417

This is my SP01 with FPB installed:

Edited by kneelingatlas
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thanks again atlas..

I used your post and others as well to do my trigger job.. very helpful... I think next thing will be type 1 disco as you say. I read your guide but still dont have it very clear from where in the trigger bar I have to remove.

as you say, the factory shadow need trigger job, but I'm mean the CZ sp-01 shadow custom from CZC.. 2014 (which include the ext FP, pre-b disco)

thanks

Edited by MP9
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I'm mean the CZ sp-01 shadow custom from CZC.. 2014 (which include the ext FP, pre-b disco)

This pistol would likely have a shorter reset than your SP01, but I doubt is it would be as short as mine in the video, and I would be surprised if the trigger pull was lighter than 7-8# DA and 3# SA.

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H Atlas..

from what part of the trigger bar should I remove/fit?.. I guess it is from the side It contact the FPBL.. but at the rear edge?just at the point where the FPBL last touch the t/bar when reset?

if I get that reset as your video.. would be it legal for IDPA ESP? (anyone who can confirm that.)

thanks

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You will need to do additional work on your trigger on the 2014 Shadow Custom. I just sent my Shadow Custom into CGW to get polished and tuned, along with the 11.5 lbs hammer, his trigger return spring, extended firing pin, reduced power firing spring and .095 front site. I went from 8lbs 2oz DA, 3lbs 5oz SA to 5lbs 15oz DA, 2lbs 10oz SA and the action is silky smooth. If you went with the CGW comp hammer vs the CZC comp hammer that number would probably be lower. If you shoot USPSA or IDPA you would not be able to use the the CGW hammer.

David at CGW says that his trigger return spring made from music wire will lower the DA by .5lbs by itself.

I would recommend getting a factory shadow, I know they are unicorns that are easier to find, and send it to David at CGW or getting the CGW parts and DIY the trigger job. You will be much happier than getting a Custom 2014.

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H Atlas..

from what part of the trigger bar should I remove/fit?.. I guess it is from the side It contact the FPBL.. but at the rear edge?just at the point where the FPBL last touch the t/bar when reset?

if I get that reset as your video.. would be it legal for IDPA ESP? (anyone who can confirm that.)

thanks

IMG_20140123_225740_749_zpsc929a1eb.jpg

I don't know anything about IDPA.

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yes, I have the RP-TRS.. it helps.

atlas.. lecture me a little bit to understand it better

so, you remove a little from the top of those areas..and not on the rear/edge area. how that help?I would like to get it.

I thought removing from the rear area, (as shown on yellow) could help. when releasing the trigger,that area slide under the FPBL. until the end,. then the T/Bar pop up . so, I was thinking if you remove a little of metal in that area it might shorten the reset but might add some pre-travel as well..(I may me wrong)

IMG_20140123_225740_749_zpsc36d4622.jpg

(sorry I used your picture, let me know and I will delete it)

thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

well..

I did install the type 1 disco..and it didnt worked as I expected. I remove a little of the disco, and FPBL.. (I got a spare FPBL just in case).

the reset was still long.. what help me a little bit was to remove from the foot of the FPBL.. now the reset is around 3.8mm using the type 2 disco.. with he type 1 it was like 4 - 4.2.. even with the stock disco is 3.8mm. I dont want to remove more from the FPBL because it might not engage properly the FPB and wont hit the primer..

what I'm thinking is the disco will hold back the trigger bar..to reset the trigger the trigger bar has to travel from the way back until it slide all the FPBL base..there is when you feel the "clic" of the reset.

I think I'm knowing better this platform, I will keep it this way for now. any input will be appreciated.

thanks

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