Stock 2 single action reset not as positive as I would like

[sarpau]

Just finished upgrading the internals on my Stock 2.

Went from a 1pc sear to a 2pc, xtreme hammer and the appropriate disconnector (shaved wing version)

Double and single action feel great.

The reset in SA is nice and short, but the reset isn't giving me a nice positive click like I'm used to with my CZ, or what I remember from the old parts.

It is faint and if I go really slow, I hardly hear/feel anything.

Plunger spring is stock so it has more than enough upwards pressure.

Without being able to see what is happening under the sear upon reset, its hard to identify what could be improved.

I have an idea, but would like to maybe learn from someone's experience before I start testing my theories

Thanks

Paul

[CHA-LEE]

The upward pressure of the trigger bar (set by the trigger plunger spring) is the only thing that creates the "Click" on the reset as the trigger bar comes up in front of the bottom leg of the sear. What is the sear leg angle that the trigger bar pushes on? if it is cut at a forward angle then it will not have a positive "Click" as the trigger bar gets in front of it. Take the sear out and take a side picture of it so we can see how the front edge of the sear leg is cut.

[sarpau]

Thanks Cha-lee

Sear angles seem to be fine.

I think some of the issue is I had too much lube in there.

Cleaned up there is a more positive reset click.

Gun functions just fine, maybe I'm striving for perfection that isn't there in a production gun?

I found an angle to be able to see the trigger bar movement upon reset, and it looks like it is only coming up about 40 thousandths before the bar bottoms out.

Could the leg of the sear not be protruding enough out of the bottom of sear cage?

The leg of the firing pin block protrudes almost twice as much.

Took a couple of quick photos.

[CHA-LEE]

The sear leg angle looks good. Too much lube will quiet it down a lot.

[CHA-LEE]

The reset "click" you hear is actually the trigger bar hitting the under side of the sear cage. If the sear leg is shorter the trigger bar will have less distance to move to hit the under side of the sear cage.

[sarpau]

Thanks.

Like I mentioned, the function is fine, just wondering if something was "out of spec" as I'm fairly new to Tanfoglios.

Been playing with CZ's for a few years though.

Thanks for your time

Paul

[sarpau]

Took a quick trip to the range today to function check and 1 in 10 SA resets didn't work, and the trigger would go dead with the hammer cocked back. (similar to the issue noted in the "trigger job help" thread)

Dry fire function was fine, but live fire, not so much.

Put the one piece sear and its disconnector back in, and all is good.

Nice firm positive reset, with lots of trigger bar movement.

Trigger still feels nice with the xtreme hammer.

I have to figure out what the trigger bar is binding on, that is preventing it from raising high enough to reset properly.

It has to either be the new disconnector, or lower firing pin block leg of the 2pc sear.

Those are the two big dimensional changes vs the 1pc sear and its disconnector, which work perfectly right now.

Will take measurements this weekend if I have time and see if I can figure out what is getting in the way.

[hal1955]

Possibly weak sear spring.

[AlphaSeeker]

The trigger worked great until you put the slide on it - wright?

The slide kicks down the Trigger Bar as it cycles - your's is not coming back up.

DA will work fine but the SA will go dead and fail to reset.

Since you played with the disco, it is likely the culprit if you did anything to the vertical leg. This surface needs to be VERY smooth and the angle can not be too severe - the TB rubs on this surface as it rises to reset in SA. My CGW disco benefited from stoning of the outside edges on the vertical leg.

The leg of the Pin Block in the two part sear may also bee too far forward. this surface may be stoned a bit, without creating a problem.

The easiest method to replicate slide cycle action at the workbench is to remove the slide, cock the hammer and use a tool to push down the trigger bar and squeeze the trigger.

You will be able to see the interaction of the disco/sear/trigger bar as you look from the barrel end of the frame.

[CHA-LEE]

Your reset failure sounds exactly like what happens when the pre travel set screw is set too "tight". You can't have the pre travel set screw adjusted so tight that the trigger resets just as the trigger shoe hits the pre travel set point. You always need a little bit of pre travel take up to ensure proper reset when shooting the gun.

You also need to keep in mind that when you swap sears you almost always have to

Tweak the pre & over travel set screws to balance the trigger travel to what the sear requires to function properly. You can't expect to simply throw in a different sear and have it work properly without making pre & over travel adjustments.