jayhkr Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Ok so next week my new Dillon SDB will arrive and I will start my adventure down the reloading road! It'll be primarily in 9mm for a G19 and M&P Shield. I've read many manuals, watched many videos and have looked at a lot of data. I just want to double check what I've seen/read. My components are as follows: CCI 500 124 GR RN COATED Bullets << Link provided Titegroup powder Once Fired Range Brass Data shows for a 125 GR Lead bullet (just making sure this data is "close enough" for my 124gr) Min powder is 3.6gr with max of 4.0 and an OAL of 1.125. My thoughts were to load 25 at 3.6, 3.8 and 4.0 to see where I want to be. These are just plinking rounds, nothing needed for competition. Sorry, no chronograph as my indoor ranges don't allow them unless I "reserve for a special occasion which = $$) Trying to get over my jitters now. I understand the basics and am very detailed oriented (drives my wife crazy) not to mention I'm not one that rushes projects. I'd rather take the extra time to make it perfect than speed through just to accomplish it. BUT, the fact still remains we're all working with things that can go BOOM if not done properly. What are some of the things I should be looking for during the process as far as issues go? I know to watch the powder drops, and measure ever 10 case or so. However I didn't know if there was anything else I should inspect when the ammo is complete. Thank you everyone! Happy shooting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 go slow. get to know the machine. never DOUBLE CHARGE TG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDlineman Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Make sure you have an accurate scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayhkr Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 go slow. get to know the machine. never DOUBLE CHARGE TG! Oh yeah, I'm in no hurry to plop out 300 rounds an hour at the beginning. I will have a light near the powder drop to ensure I don't mess up that station. Make sure you have an accurate scale. Ordered the Dillon Eliminator from Brian too! Such a classy guy! Asked him what he thought about getting extra decap pins and he tossed them in at no charge! Top notch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Once you have one round assembled place it in the chamber of your barrel. (Field strip your gun and have just your barrel on your bench). Your barrel is your chamber checker, make sure the round sits flush. After you load around 10, make sure they all fit as well. No point loading a bunch of rounds if they won't chamber in your gun. I just tested several powders with S&S, Bayou Bullets and BBI. TiteGroup seemed a bit smokey with S&S and BBI. Solo1000, WST and WSF weren't too bad. During these times just getting any powder is challenging. Your might want to drop your round count to 10 of each and see how you like them before loading a bunch. I've loaded .3 of a grain or more below min. and had good results. As stated, take it SLOW. Good luck and welcome to reloading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xraysur Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 You're getting a progressive press, but there is nothing that requires you to use it in progressive mode when you start out. You can operate it like a turret press. At least I assume you can - I've never run a Dillon press. What I mean is that you put a single piece of brass in the press and do all of the operations on that one cartridge before you put the next case in the press. This way, you can watch each operation on every case and be sure each round is made properly. When something goes wrong, you will see it right away and you can fix that round without worrying about trying to deal with other cases in the press. By making one round at a time, you can inspect the finished cartridge and adjust the dies to fix anthing that isn't quite right before you move on to the next piece of brass. If you are working in progressive mode and you find that a finished round is not correct, then you have to figure out how many of the shells that are still in the press need to be fixed too. If you try to run the press in progressive mode, with the shell plate full, right away, you will find that too many things are happening at once for you to monitor them all. You are likely to get confused and forget steps. That's when you could make mistakes that could have dangerous consequences. Once you've made a 100 or more cartridges one at a time and you are comfortable with how each station on the press operates, then you can move into progressive mode without being overwhelmed. There is one thing that you need to watch out for when you switch from one shell at a time mode into full progressive mode. The overall cartridge length may change. The seating die may press the bullet down to a different depth when you are resizing a case at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blankenhole Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 There is one thing that you need to watch out for when you switch from one shell at a time mode into full progressive mode. The overall cartridge length may change. The seating die may press the bullet down to a different depth when you are resizing a case at the same time. +1 this is spot on. I xraysur had some really good points. Going "turret mode" might take longer to get into the swing of things, but at the same time when you hit a problem it will not be nearly as overwhelming if you were in "progressive mode" as you only have one station to worry about at a time until you get a handle on the process and the machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 When you set it up, run a case at every location, this balances the load on the shell plate and makes for more uniform rounds. Then, if you wish, you can try the "turret approach". Personally, I'd see if you can find an experienced reloader among your friends or acquaintances in your area who could walk you through the process a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A63111 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 IF you try the turret approach most stations will not do their respective job correctly. They are dependent on all stations having a round present. If not the plate tips slight changing the OAL, crimp and how far down you size. Slow and steady, check things a lot and have that light so you can see. Just get used to the press and it's quirks at first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishsticks Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Slight thread drift, but you mention lead projectiles being loaded for a glock. Have you done some research on that combo? If not, I would suggest doing so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayhkr Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yep, I'll be purchasing an after market barrel. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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