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match


mikeiss

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posted this on another site too looking for advice

Thought it would be neat to have a 10mm gun. Bought a barely used match then started researching them. Yes I know this is backwards. So anyway I am just a plinker with a new toy wondering what to do next.
1. Install Henning conefit and 20#? spring
2. get a sprinco recoil management guiderod system
3. forget it all and drop in a 40 barrell (sell the 10mm bbl)and be done with 10mm.
I probably won't shoot a lot of hot 10mm or a lot of anything for that matter but feel if you have a 10mm you ought to be able to shoot the real stuff or just go the 40 route which is $10.00 box cheaper. I won't reload unless I quit a few other hobbies.
thanks in advance to any comments
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I would and have quit my other hobbies (except my spouse and kids). Shoot, reload, repeat. :roflol:

Seriously, my .40 Match accepts and functions well with 1.26" OAL cartridges (with 10mm magazines). 3.2 grains of Clays works well for a mild plinking load with a 180 grain bullet and the internal volume and case web thickness are the same as a 10mm case as well. It does give one pause for thought, but you could do the same with the 10mm barrel and cases. And you could load 10mm with hottish .40 loading data at 10mm lengths and have thousands of pounds per square inch less chamber pressure (possibly as much as 10k-12k less pressure than a .40 round).

Of course striking out on one's own is always at your own risk and sometimes fraught with peril. I can't remember who said that, maybe just my high school guidance counselor.

Edited by jmbaccolyte
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If you're concerned about frame/slide damage, I would get some aluminum shock buffs and tune the length of your slide accordingly. By that I mean you want to remove the spring and pull the slide all the way to the rear until it stops on the frame, note the length of slide sticking out the back of the frame. Then install your spring and shock buff and repeat, you want the fully rearward position to be just short of the one you noted before, that way you get maximum slide travel but the shock buff takes the impulse. If you want the slide to come back further, clip half a coil from the spring and try again.

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If you are concerned with frame/slide damage I would get the Sprinco 2 stage guiderod. I tried dual springs, as stiff of springs as I could get, buffers, etc but the slide would hit the frame with my hot loads. Switched to the Sprinco and haven't messed with it since. Runs great and no slide to frame contact.

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Just ordered sprinco and 22# wolff. Now I wonder if it will cycle the watered down stuff? For me it came down to wanting to shoot a real 10mm load (without beating the gun up) and if I can't well I guess that is what a 40 is for. I don't think anyone disagrees you need a heavier spring and the sprinco is just a little more insurance.

thanks for all the replies I really appreciate it!

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If you are running hot 10mm (155 @ 1400) then a 20lb and the Sprinco will work. Shooting 180's on up I've heard the 18lb + spinco willl work. They didn't have the 22# back when I ordered springs so I don't know if that will be too much with the sprinco or not.

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Is the stock spring 18#? I guess I could start with it and the sprinco deal then put the 22# in if need be.

Remind me again why I didn't just throw a 40 barrel in and be done? And why can't I get the miami vice theme song out of my head when I think about this little project?

Thanks again for the advice

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok 22#wolf in sprinco in. Do I need to install the bushing (ss washer) in the front of the slide?

It says use instruction c for cz75 st tactical/sport (use buffer)

It says use instruction d for cz75/85/97,sp01

I put the bushing in the front of The slide instruction "c"

Any ideas?

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