S1050, changed to 9mm, first loads, smashed primers

[dillon]

I suspect the primer seating punch return spring is collapsed a bit, and not pulling the punch down fast enough. A spare was included with the machine, swap that out and see if the slide return smooths up.

[lockmup68]

Update 3 I think:

walked away for a couple of days, got back on it on Sat. I took everything apart and cleaned again. Replaced the primer seating punch spring as suggested (old one "looked" to be same length as the replacement one, was still tight). Also got some stuff in the mail, so installed the plastic detent ball vs. the stock metal one. I also got the roller bearing kit from Hit Factor (along with the knobs and such). Directions said to grease the roller bearings, but I don't actually like a lot of grease on the shell plate, so I soaked the oring and bearing in Balistol over night, wiped off before installing and put it on. I do have to say the roller bearing and plastic detent ball are much overdue upgrades. Totally took the snappiness out of the stroke. I also like how you can snug down the shellplate tight and how tightening up the tabs on the ringnut doesn't totally screw up the action of the shellplate.

Reinstalled everything and readjusted the primer tray with the surefire, dropped 10 primers down one at a time and they all came out of the plate flat and perfect. The new spring took the hang out of the primer slide as well.

I now remember why I love the 1050. I actually was able to get a normal stroke and finally some production of actual rounds. Loaded 900 or so in an hour and a half. No powder spillage from snappy plate.

Still getting 1-2 primers spit out per 100, but I hear them come out and I pull the brass from the powder drop station so I don't spill any powder. I kept those 8-10 pieces of brass and ran those through individually at the end and they all primed and loaded properly.

I really love the upgraded swage rod my engineer buddy from John Deere fixed for me. That extra 1/4" of length, the extra width, and the longer threads really made that piece stronger and with a more "firm" feel when swaging.

So, with mil-brass, is 1-2 per hundred the norm for smashed primers. Looking at the primers that come out, it clearly looks like they get caught on the edge of the primer pocket and the center of the primer is pushed up. What's the average for production with mil-brass?

Thanks for all the help. Going to knock out the rest of the 124g's and then knock out the 147s. When I get all the 9mm done, then I'm going to figure out 223 processing and loading. I'm a virgin for rifle reloading, so I apologize in advance. I have all the brass tumbled and shiny to start, but it is all mil brass too, so expecting a big learning curve like the 9mm was. I'm also glad I started with 45 and 40 as I don't know if I would have kept with it so long if I had started on 9mm with mil brass.

Question, where can I get some .001 shims for the primer slide tray adjustment? I have cut up business cards in there now, but all the taking apart has smashed the cards down and I had to add two new ones in there, so real shims would allow me to keep consistent adjustment.

Thanks,

Shannon

[lockmup68]

Update 3 I think:

walked away for a couple of days, got back on it on Sat. I took everything apart and cleaned again. Replaced the primer seating punch spring as suggested (old one "looked" to be same length as the replacement one, was still tight). Also got some stuff in the mail, so installed the plastic detent ball vs. the stock metal one. I also got the roller bearing kit from Hit Factor (along with the knobs and such). Directions said to grease the roller bearings, but I don't actually like a lot of grease on the shell plate, so I soaked the oring and bearing in Balistol over night, wiped off before installing and put it on. I do have to say the roller bearing and plastic detent ball are much overdue upgrades. Totally took the snappiness out of the stroke. I also like how you can snug down the shellplate tight and how tightening up the tabs on the ringnut doesn't totally screw up the action of the shellplate.

Reinstalled everything and readjusted the primer tray with the surefire, dropped 10 primers down one at a time and they all came out of the plate flat and perfect. The new spring took the hang out of the primer slide as well.

I now remember why I love the 1050. I actually was able to get a normal stroke and finally some production of actual rounds. Loaded 900 or so in an hour and a half. No powder spillage from snappy plate.

Still getting 1-2 primers spit out per 100, but I hear them come out and I pull the brass from the powder drop station so I don't spill any powder. I kept those 8-10 pieces of brass and ran those through individually at the end and they all primed and loaded properly.

I really love the upgraded swage rod my engineer buddy from John Deere fixed for me. That extra 1/4" of length, the extra width, and the longer threads really made that piece stronger and with a more "firm" feel when swaging.

So, with mil-brass, is 1-2 per hundred the norm for smashed primers. Looking at the primers that come out, it clearly looks like they get caught on the edge of the primer pocket and the center of the primer is pushed up. What's the average for production with mil-brass?

Thanks for all the help. Going to knock out the rest of the 124g's and then knock out the 147s. When I get all the 9mm done, then I'm going to figure out 223 processing and loading. I'm a virgin for rifle reloading, so I apologize in advance. I have all the brass tumbled and shiny to start, but it is all mil brass too, so expecting a big learning curve like the 9mm was. I'm also glad I started with 45 and 40 as I don't know if I would have kept with it so long if I had started on 9mm with mil brass.

Question, where can I get some .001 shims for the primer slide tray adjustment? I have cut up business cards in there now, but all the taking apart has smashed the cards down and I had to add two new ones in there, so real shims would allow me to keep consistent adjustment.

Thanks,

Shannon

Forgot, glorious pic of my labors today. The best part is seeing a bin full of ammo. Good thing is I case gauged about 100 of them and all are gauging perfect.

[slavic09]

Thanks to all who contributed here - this has helped me a lot.

[jmorris]

So, with mil-brass, is 1-2 per hundred the norm for smashed primers. Looking at the primers that come out, it clearly looks like they get caught on the edge of the primer pocket and the center of the primer is pushed up. What's the average for production with mil-brass?

No, it shouldn't be normal. I have loaded 5 gallon buckets full without problems and 1-2 per 100 would be unacceptable.

How are you filling the primer tube? In the photo of you loaded rounds you can see that at least one of them has an inverted primer. How many of them are you getting per 100? Important to know if the primers are going in correct and flipping on the machine or not. Might help isolate your other problem.

Edited March 3, 2014 by jmorris

[mcracco]

I loaded about 1,000 WCC this weekend with no smashed primers. BUT, this is brass I have been cycling for some time and I chamfered primer pockets with Hornady tool on the first cycle (as posted earlier). If you pickup your brass I think this extra step is well worth the effort.

May be water over the damn but I also feel a loose shellplate and white tab spaced a busness card thickness off the case are key when reloading 9mm.