Ok I am a bit confused...dies, EGW dies, customization, etc.

[dtt255]

I have been continuing to do research on reloading etc. as I wait for my 650 to come in.

I have decided to try and have purchased processed brass, to try and eliminate a step (money reasons) at this point. I have purchased primers, bullets, brass, powder, etc.

I purchased a 9mm die set from Dillon. I know it comes with the powder measure etc. Also ordered the powder sensor for safety.

So after reading and reading, I am finding people are also adding or replacing stuff with:

EGW resizing die

Competition Seater Dies

Separate dies for this and that to eliminate certain steps.....or to make sure certain steps are better off seperated.

I am just confused at this point

I am starting out with 9mm, and am not trying to do competition or anything of that sort. Just trying to do target rounds for a while as I start out.

Can anyone direct me at this point?

Thanks

Dtt255

Edited January 30, 2013 by dtt255

[trp]

Egw has u-dies there undersized to get rid of any bulge in the brass due to sloppy chambers

[MustangGreg66]

To me, competition seating dies are nice when you might be loading different styles or weights of bullets often and working up a load. This is because they have a micrometer adjustment for bullet seating, which does make it easier to change seating depth.

If you're just going to load 1 style and weight of bullet, as most people do with pistol, then a standard seating die is all you need.

I have a micrometer die for my 40 S&W since I load 180gr Moly coated truncated cone bullets and 180gr FMJ which have a different shape. I also load 10mm which uses the same dies, it's just a longer case and longer seating depth than 40 S&W. Having the micrometer adjustment of the competition dies, I can set it up once and write down the adjustment, then go back and forth a lot easier than with a standard die.

The Lee die set has a micrometer style adjustment for the seating die, just without the marks. You can adjust the seating without loosening up the die in the toolhead.

I use the U-die for 40 S&W since I run an aftermarket barrel in my Glock that has a tighter chamber. For the 9mm I just run the standard Lee sizing die and I haven't had any trouble with it.

I'd say start with a standard set of dies. If you purchase processed brass that's been roll sized, you definitely won't have trouble with bulged brass.

[smoothdraw]

Just load with what you have. you'll be fine. Later you'll know if you need anything else.

Like the post above. EGW dies are use if you are picking up brass, and some brass has been shot in open gun or glock then there will be bulge. EGW will shrink the brass so that you can reuse them. You say you are buying processed brass then you don't need this now. Competition seater is like that a seater that has micrometer adjustments. rather than adjusting the die up or down, you just rotate this micrometer and the seating goes up or down. Again if you not loading different bullets or different length say production load and 9mm major load for open gun then you don't need this.

Make sure though that you seat the primer good, needs to be flat or sitting lower than base of brass. And case gauge, get a 20 round or 50 round case gauge. watch out your powder spill. There is some washer bearing combo available that allows you to tighten the plate so it don't rotate violently and spill powder a lot. At the beginning check your powder loads. the 1st 3 powder throws are usually a bit more and stabilize after 3 throws. Make your powder adjustments after 3 throws. Get a good scale that reads as low as 0.02 grains. Ive been using old vicon acculab. make a habit to check your load every 50 at the beginning until you get comfort on your powder charge.

Good luck buddy! Relax, It's only reloading.

[Chills1994]

before I got the EGW/Lee Undersized die, I would case gauge every loaded round. Then I set up with the Lee Factory Crimp die on the back end, AND....AND!!! the EGW/Lee U die on the front end. I don't case gauge any more except for maybe the first 5 to 10 rounds off the press at the start of a reloading session.

I dump a total of ten charges into my scale's pan. If each charge is supposed to be 4.2 grains, each, then I move the scale's indicator weights over to read 42.0. Then I dump the contents of the scale back into the Dillon powder measure.

I also use a Redding Micrometer Adjustable Bullet Seating die. I started out with a bunch of Dillon die sets, but I eventually sold them all off.

[dtt255]

Thanks for all this info!

Why would I want a 20 or 50 case gauge? Why not a single and test every 10-15 rounds?

They are not expensive, but I am just wondering.

[smoothdraw]

because you want to case gauge each and every one of your loads when you are reloading specially if you are not using u-die. Even with U-die sometime i have a brass that do not fit to case gauge and i set it aside. If you don't mind to have a failure to feed from time to time then do the sampling case gauge test. That's what i do in the beginning and experience and coaching from more experienced shooters, i learned that case gauging each of your loads are sooooo important!

It's not hard specially with those 20 hole or 50 hole case gauge. I like my 20 hole case gauge. trust me on this buddy, you'll thank me after a year :-)

[dtt255]

because you want to case gauge each and every one of your loads when you are reloading specially if you are not using u-die. Even with U-die sometime i have a brass that do not fit to case gauge and i set it aside. If you don't mind to have a failure to feed from time to time then do the sampling case gauge test. That's what i do in the beginning and experience and coaching from more experienced shooters, i learned that case gauging each of your loads are sooooo important!

It's not hard specially with those 20 hole or 50 hole case gauge. I like my 20 hole case gauge. trust me on this buddy, you'll thank me after a year :-)

Nah I would rather chance it with an explosive device in my hand and near my face!

I understand I was planning on getting a case gauge, just didn't know I needed or they made a 20-50 case gauge. So test the first initial 10...then make a run of 25-50 rounds, and test those to make they gauge correctly?