Opened up my 627

[Petrov]

Could not wait for the Khunhausens shop manual, I opened up my 627 Pro series. After putting 500 rounds through it and about 2000 dry fires I decided to poke it with a stick and see what happens.

Pretty much except for the hammer all parts have no rubbing, the rebound slide was nice and shiny with only a tiny rub mark.

I ordered wilson combat main spring aling with the rebout slide spring set 12,13 and 14 pounds.

The 12 and 13 pound rebound spring were usless for me, I had to throw my finger foward, I have weak(ish) fingers so my finger was camping up after 6 or so shots. 14 pounder did I nice job and my fingers liked the return force.

I do not have a scale for the trigger so I used my booger hook reading, put in the wilson main spring and got it to about 10-11 pounds.

It would set off wolf primers without any problems. Kinda concerened about the lock time though, takes the hammer slightly more time to fall compared to when the tension screw is all the way in.

I have the apex bobbed hammer on the way to fix that.

My stock hammer was rubbing in the top of the fram around the firing pin area, It was pretty bad, I have alarge rough siny spot right on the top right side of the hammer where it rubs against the frame.

I know most folks here shoot 625's, but I just wanted to share my experience.

I have parts on the way, putting in apex hammer and possibly a trigger with overtravel limited since the stock one does not have it.

Is there a way to install overtravel limiter on the stock trigger without bubba engineering it?

[66L]

It's good to hear everything is running as it's supposed to. I use a lighter rebound spring simply to help with the trigger pull weight, but a lot of top shooters like a strong trigger reset. I keep my revolvers pretty wet under the side plate which makes it more difficult to see wear and keeps things as smooth as possible.

[BlueOvalBandit]

Is there a way to install overtravel limiter on the stock trigger without bubba engineering it?

You mean like a trigger stop? other than the old screw in the frame, or a screw on the backside of the trigger itself S&W has a rod that goes inside the rebound spring.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/683427/smith-and-wesson-trigger-stop-rod-s-and-w-14-17-8-25-27-29-57-325pd-329pd-386-386pd-396-500-586-610-617-2-624-625-627-629-648

Your gun *should* have one I would think, it just might be shorter than you want.

Edited May 16, 2012 by BlueOvalBandit

[okshootist]

Of all the overtravel stops I have used, the best is still a section of pencil eraser, superglued to the frame behind the trigger. Adjust length with an emery board. That may qualify as Bubba engineering but it works, and doesn't require modification of the trigger or place additional stress on the rebound stud.

[Carmoney]

I use a lighter rebound spring simply to help with the trigger pull weight, but a lot of top shooters like a strong trigger reset.

I would say a lot of top shooters like a light to moderate trigger reset. The top shooters have learned how to dynamically release the trigger as part of the trigger pull sequence, rather than rely on the rebound spring to push the finger forward.

Jerry once used heavy rebound springs in his guns. Not anymore--if you ask him about it, he'll tell you he "grew out of that."

[Carmoney]

After messing with them extensively over the years, I have discovered that I don't like trigger stops on DA revolver triggers. The whole goal of the revolver trigger is a nice smooth long roll, and in my opinion the last thing you want is the trigger stop hitting the frame before the bullet leaves the barrel. I want plenty of nice follow-through after the shot breaks. If the action is set up right, you're not going to feel any noticeable backlash.

The factory trigger stop pin that rides inside the rebound slide is fine--you really don't want anything that takes away that little extra bit of DA overtravel, if you ask me.

[Carmoney]

Of all the overtravel stops I have used, the best is still a section of pencil eraser, superglued to the frame behind the trigger. Adjust length with an emery board. That may qualify as Bubba engineering but it works, and doesn't require modification of the trigger or place additional stress on the rebound stud.

The eraser thing is an old PPC shooters' trick used for staging the trigger and creating the impression of firing in single-action mode. It has no real value in the action shooting sports, quite frankly.

[6cylinder]

Thanks Mike, after reading your post I am going to rethink and pratice my trigger pulls and releases. I have not been shooting revolver that much lately and need all the help I can get. Thank you everyone for great questions and answers.