D.carden Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 I want to add a trigger stop to my 627 & 625 to eliminate over travel. I bought a cobalt drill bit to make an 1/8 th in. hole for a role pin. The bit didnt even make a scratch on the back side of the trigger. Any suggestions on drilling this without going to a gunsmith? That is some "HARD" steel. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Yeah, I have a suggestion--take your drill bit (might have to use one a little smaller than 1/8"), lop off the chuck end with a dremel cut-off wheel, and make yourself an internal trigger stop out of it to replace the stock one. Make it a little longer than the pin that rides inside your rebound slide, and then file it down gradually so it stops the trigger travel just after the hammer drops in DA mode (unless you want to retain the ability to thumb-cock, and then set it to stop trigger movement just after the hammer falls in SA mode). Go slow, take the time to get it exactly right, round off the sharp corners so they don't catch on the inside of the rebound spring, and you'll never have to worry about it again for the life of the gun. Nothing to come loose, or come apart. Nothing to alter the exterior appearance of the gun. No violation of IPSC revolver rules--after all, you're just refitting a part that the factory didn't bother to fit properly... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Dan, just happened to catch your name on the IRC results--very nice job! I'd love to shoot that match someday myself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firewalker Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 I want to add a trigger stop Usually hardware stores will sell 1/8" carbide drills (we even have used the carbide burrs for a drimel in a drill presess) The newer 625s the pad on the back is the only resonable place to locate new pin. One word of caution TAKE IT SLOWLY you can accidently break thru the face of the trigger if u dont use a debth stop and arent careful. But it is something that u can do with out much problem. If i knew how to add pics i would post my 2 625s with trigger stops...I set them to legnth that u can barely cock single action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted June 27, 2004 Author Share Posted June 27, 2004 Trigger stops I'll try to drill it today after practice. This is a serrated (solid) trigger i bought from S&W , not the stock one. The stock trigger was narrow and smooth and had a stop on it, i preffer the wide serrated trigger for more control ( this is on the pc 627). I hope a carbide bit does it, i dont want to lose time sending it out. Mike, thanks - IRC was great! Great people! lots of fun! Firewalker, you too-thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lee Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Greetings, The PC and older style forged triggers are case hardened, so you'll need to remove the case hardened surface to allow the tip of the drill to bite into the softer core metal. If you can't find a carbide bit, you can use a Dremel tool with a small carbide ball to penetrate the hardened surface( this will also locate a spot for your drill. The hardened surface is only about .002 deep. Hope this helps, Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Off subject, but weird to see my name under another member (D. Carden) Welcome to the forum, and also good job at the IRC. Doug Carden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted June 27, 2004 Author Share Posted June 27, 2004 Doug, I knew you were out there. When i check my classification stat your name comes up too. I shot with some guys ( in my squad) at the IRC that were from Massachusetts, they said they knew you or had shot with you somewhere. They asked if we were related? its possible! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted June 27, 2004 Author Share Posted June 27, 2004 Randy Picked up a dremel bit at OSH. I'll give it a try. Practiced with Paul & Margaret today, talked alot about your "intell". You got good stuff! Thanks, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRodriguez Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 why don't you just add a pin in the rebound spring, then you don't have to drill your trigger, it shouldn't be to hard to tune the length of the pin to stop the travel where you want it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted June 28, 2004 Author Share Posted June 28, 2004 Trigger stop Randy I got the trigger stop installed "perfecto". Use dremel bit #9903 tungsten carbide. It worked just like you said, use it as a drill bit to remove the hardened surface, then finish it with a regular carbide bit. Took about an hour to do both guns. Big difference in minimizing muzzle movement after the hammer drops. Thanks again Dan John, I've used the pin inside the rebound spring, on ocassion it would bind up so i prefer not to have anything inside the slide but the spring. Thanks for the idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lee Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 Hello Dan, Glad it worked! Paul and Margaret are truly two of the nicest people. Congrats on your placement at the IRC. BTW, where do you , Dan and Margaret practice? Regards, Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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