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Reloading table help


czambesi

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I am about to start reloading. The issue is I only have a 30 x 60 table top to work with. It is in the down stairs next to my big screen and across from my fiancee's area. Here are my ?

-How tall should the top sit? The top is custom made so I can drill/ bolt/ attach whatever I want and can build the support legs, etc to whatever height.

- What type of chair should I invest in?

-I have a RCBS single stage press for the moment but I am investing in a 1050 for handgun rds(shooting USPSA). How may sets of presses could I attach to table? I was going to use the 1050 for handgun and the RCBS for .308 sub-sonic and hunting loads. Should I get another type of press for bulk .223/5.56?

-I have the rock chucker supremem master reloading kit. What else should I go ahead and buy to get started?

Any other suggestions? I have read thru the forum and saw alot of people who had whole rooms to work with. I am not that lucky yet...(next house will have the room) Just trying to maximize what I have to work with for the moment.

Thanks for the help,

Chris

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It really depends on how heigh of a chair you get to determine the bench height. You actually have a little more space than I do as I am around 45 inches on the bench. Mine had to be made to fit into a certain area of an apt. Bigger would be nice but Im not hurting for space. I have a dillon and a Single stage I use for the push through sizing on occasion. The dillon stayes mounted. The single stage has the holes drilled and washers/bolts in the holes when its not actually needed

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Check out the huge reloading bench thread for some ideas.

You don't want the press setup so you have to squat or bend knees to get it to it's lowest position. Doing that 1000 times an hour will wear you out. I don't know the heights of the 1050 handles, Brian Enos is a good resource for those kinds of questions - give him a call.

I don't like reloading from a chair. I need to look down into the case (to check for powder) before I place each bullet.

When building the bench, tie it into a wall if possible. Bolting it to a wall makes it more stable and you'll get better results. If you can't, build it with a lower shelf and stack that lower shelf full of the heaviest stuff you can find. A heavy bench will be less wobbly than a light weight one. I keep all my bullets and brass on the lower shelf to help.

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Agree 100% with ihatepickles....make the bench heavy and anchor it to wall and floor to prevent vibration shifting something you don't want to shift around.

Invest in a good pad to stand on for when you want to stand to examine stuff . There are good pads sold through woodworking supply places.

As someone who has a bad back I can't remain standing or sitting for too long a period so I need a good chair AND the floor mat that is padded.

Relevant to another thread consider grounding the press and perhaps have a grounded plate attached to the bench to touch before you do anything with primers or powder.

Good suggestion was to pour a quantity of powder into a coffee can and THEN pour the powder into the powder measure. Less powder being poured at one time from plastic to plastic probably lessens the chance of static electricity getting into the mix...also less powder coming from the coffee can as opposed to the giant economy size 5 pound powder containers in case something does go horribly wrong.

Close off the room if you can so you're less likely to be distracted by anything going on around you.

Good luck.

JK

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I prefer to be standing while loading on my 1050, especially if loading a lot of ammo. It's easier on your back and you get better leverage.

And if you need to load .223, just get an extra toolhead, powder measure, etc. for the 1050, it'll make the conversion a LOT easier/faster.

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When you set the press up try and get it level, seems simple but the machines will run better. You can use fender washers under the press or shim the legs.

If someone comes in, stop finish the conversation then continue loading.

Leave and come back, leave the shell plate full. Start by pushing the handle up, then you know the case has a primer seated.

If something doesn't feel right, it's not, the machine will tell you when a problem exist once you have a feel for that machine.

I believe in lubing cases, makes the whole process easier on the brass, the machine and the operator. Lessen the chance for something coming loose. Rounds can be cleaned by putting them back in the tumbler for 30 min.

My bench is a Craftsman work table so you don't need a huge area though it's nice. Picked up a stool at Good Will for a few bucks. Once your machine's mounted it's not hard to find a chair or stool to work from. Loaded standing on my first bench but prefer the stool as I've aged.

Lighting comes into play also you need to see whats going on.

Check out reloading benches in the gallery section, lots of good ideas.

Edited by Bob DuBois
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I also prefer to stand while I'm reloading. My bench is 39" at the top. As long as you have room to move around you can have multiple machines on one bench. For loading on the 1050 I would make sure my bench is secure. The bench my 650 is on I attached it to the concrete wall and floor in my basement. You will also want to make sure your 1050's casefeeder is secure. Take some L brackets and secure them to the case feeder arm then mount it to the wall. The 1050 also produces a lot of torque and can flex the shell plate during reloading, my buddy mounted his to a piece of 1/4" steel to prevent this from happening. Hope this help the 1050 is an awesome machine once you secure it and get it running.

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Thank you everyone for the help and advice.

ihatepickles - i am going to have to stack the bench since I cant anchor to wall.

Dover- Roger that, I was looking at the strong mount. The table is wood but is over 2 inches think and I am going to have my financees father build the base to go with the top.

Thanks again for the info

Chris

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